Our Zermatt 4000m Peaks climbing week concentrates on some of the most famous 4000m peaks in the Alps – the aim of the week is to climb technical 4000ers in the Swiss Valais from our base in Zermatt, but also visiting other areas nearby.

Trip Info

A challenging week climbing technical 4000m peaks in the Swiss Valais, based in Zermatt. Our goal is to climb the classic peaks of Pollux, the Breithorn (via the full or half traverse), the Zinalrothorn, and the Rimpfishhorn – a fantastic collection of routes on the Zermatt skyline, that are accessible at a 1:2 guiding ratio. We will initially organise mountain huts etc to suit this plan. However, we may amend the itinerary to suit your personal goals, if appropriate for the team as a whole – this could involve visiting the neighbouring Saas valley to climb on the range of 4000’ers on the Saas skyline. Any big AD route on these 4000’ers will be reliant on good weather and conditions, and some flexibility will be required to choose the most appropriate routes, balanced against the need to reserve hut space in advance of the trip. Typical grades are in the range PD+ to AD+.

Other dates may be available for this trip if you are a self contained team of 2 people – please enquire.

Suitability

This is an advanced level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 3+ and Tech Level 3+ (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). You need previous alpine climbing experience and must be capable of climbing grade IV rock (Hard Severe) in boots with a sac on, as well as Scottish III to succeed on these objectives. Good levels of fitness are required, as many of the hut approaches are long and typical routes involve 6-9 hours climbing each day (see fitness level 3-4) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular exercise and training.

Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding
• All guides expenses
• 2 nights accommodation in Visp, including breakfast and evening meal (apart from the final Friday night, which is BnB)
• 2 nights hotel accommodation in Zermatt, including breakfast and evening meals
• 3 nights accommodation in mountain huts, including breakfast and evening meals
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Trains and cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Evening meal on the final Friday night, in Visp
• Travel to resort
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Hotels

This trip meets and finishes in the comfortable Baxter Hotel in Visp in the Rhone valley. Visp is easily accessed by train from Geneva, and the hotel is conveniently situated close to the train station. From Visp its just 50 mins to Zermatt travelling with the guide, via Tasch. For your hotel nights on Tuesday and Thursday, you will stay in the Hotel City Garni or other comfortable hotel in Zermatt, in between your hut visits and climbing. Rooms are provided on a twin sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know at the time of booking and we will provide a quote. Excess luggage can be left in Zermatt whilst you are in the mountains. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains, we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Subject to weather and climbing conditions, the plan is as follows. Please note that this is a sample itinerary only – on trips like this, itineraries are always subject to change as the current weather and climbing conditions need to be taken into account. This is an essential part of safety planning for all mountaineering, so please be ready for changes as part of your trip.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel to Visp on Saturday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment, before we go on to discuss everyones ambitions for the week, together with current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our plans.

We’ll also have maps and guidebooks to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.

Sunday

Hut Approach and Training Day – in the morning we drive 30 mins to Tasch in the guides vehicle, then take the short train ride to Zermatt. From Zermatt we head up the Kleine Matterhorn cable car to a height of over 3800m. From here, it’s a 2-3 hour high altitude glacier trek across to the Ayas Hut – en route, we’ll undertake some skills refreshment and training appropriate to the group and the week ahead. With a pre acclimatised team, there is also the possibility of climbing Pollux on day one, to warm up.

The Ayas Hut is high, at nearly 3400m, so in order to have a more comfortable first night, we recommend some pre acclimatisation by coming out a day or two early before starting the trip.

Monday

With an early start from the Ayas hut we take on our first major outing of the week – the Breithorn Traverse via the full or half traverse variant – depending on the weather/conditions and how the team is feeling after our warmup day. Either route is a long and varied expedition, covering several 4000m peaks on the long and complex ridge crest that forms the Breithorn massif. The climb involves some snowy ascents, rocky ridge crests, pitches of easy rock climbing, exposed snow crests, and just about every other type of alpine terrain. All leading to the Breithorn’s snowy Western summit, from where an easy descent leads us to the Klein Matterhorn lift and a quick descent to Zermatt.

Overnight in Zermatt

Tuesday

Ascent to the Rothorn Hut.

The hut approach starts from Zermatt high street, heading up the Trift valley and onwards to the hut at nearly 3200m altitude, via a very scenic yet steep and strenuous walk. The hut sits in a tremendous position below the Zinalrothhorn and gives easy access for our objective the following day.

Overnight Rothorn hut.

Wednesday

Ascent of the Zinalrothorn.

There is no easy way up the magnificent Zinalrothorn. The classic way up (and down) from this side is the SE Ridge, which is graded AD and offers interesting and varied climbing at first on snow and then on rock. The summit slabs offer tremendous scrambling in an exposed position, and the summit gives amazing views of the nearby Matterhorn, Weisshorn and Obergablehorn. Descent is made via the same route.

After returning to the hut, we make the long walk back to Zermat for a well earned beer. Overnight in Zermatt.

Thursday

Ascent to the Tasch Hut.

Overnight Tasch hut.

Friday

Ascent of the Rimpfishorn.

Return to the valley, and overnight in Visp

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Please tell us of any 4000m peaks you have already climbed when booking and you’re ambitions for the week, so that we can plan/amend the week accordingly, if nec

Other 4000m peaks that we could factor into our plans, to substitute those mentioned above:

Dent Blanche – South Ridge AD (from Ferpecle)

Lagginhorn – South Ridge AD (from Saas Grund)

Weissmies North Ridge AD+/D- (from Saas Grund)

Your course starts and finishes in Visp. The most common way to reach Visp is fly into Geneva, then take a train along the Rhone Valley. Alternatively fly into Zurich or Basel.

Flights and transfers

• Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
• Train from Geneva/other airports to Visp: https://www.sbb.ch/en/home.html(integrated Swiss travel website.
• If you plan to arrive by train, then purchasing a Swiss Travel Pass (details on website above) could save you some money on this course, as you get half fare on the cable cars in many resorts, as well as on the trains and buses. If you purchase a Swiss card the journey from the airport to resort and back will also be included.
• Alternatively hire a car at any airport (all 3-4 hours driving time).

For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page.

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 3+, and Tech Level 3+ (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing).

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 40-50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Wicking thermal top – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
• Spare warm layer – lightweight synthetic/down jacket or other warm layer
• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock climbing shoes – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.