Climbing 4000m peaks is one of the classic challenges of alpine mountaineering. On this guided climbing week we focus on the superb collection of Swiss 4000m peaks which form the skyline of the picturesque Saas valley including the Lagginhorn, Nadelhorn, Allalinhorn and Weissmies. Climbing at a 1:2 ratio gives us the flexibility to climb some of the areas most varied and classic routes, in the PD/PD+ range.

Trip Info

A varied week of 4000m peak climbing in the Swiss Alps, based in the Saas valley. In recent years, some of the Saas skyline peaks have become more involved and engaging to climb, due to the variable snow cover caused by our changing climate. Some routes, which once involved easy snow climbing may now have icy sections and more exposed rock scrambling, and are therefore safer and more enjoyable when climbed within a smaller, more efficient team. Therefore we are now offering our Saas 4000m Peaks week at a 1:2 ratio for the duration of the trip. This gives us maximum flexibility and allows a broader choice of route options. All routes are selected to allow access to 4000m summits involving moderate technical difficulty.  The itinerary described below is a typical plan for the week, but we may vary itineraries and objectives to suit your ambitions and the weather.  Grades are in the range PD/PD+ range depending on the mountain. This trip makes an ideal follow up to our Italian 4000m Peaks Traverse, or after completing a Level 1 Alpine Mountaineering course.

Suitability

This is an intermediate level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 3 and Tech Level 2 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines). You need to have some alpine mountaineering experience, be very competent in the use of ice axe and crampons, and have good scrambling skills. An Alpine Mountaineering Course, a Mont Blanc ascent week or similar alpine week are suitable preparation. A good level of general fitness is required to enjoy the week, as summit days involve 5-9 hours climbing at altitude, so we advise you to prepare well in advance with days out in the UK hills, or other regular exercise.

Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding
• All guides expenses
• 4 nights accommodation in the Saas Valley, including breakfast and evening meals
• 3 nights accommodation in mountain huts, including breakfast and evening meals
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price

• Cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Travel to resort
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Hotels

Our usual hotel base is the comfortable Hotel Adler, situated at the edge of Saas Grund. The Adler is a popular hotel amongst mountaineers and guided groups, with friendly staff, good food and a peaceful location.  Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally triple) sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please book online and we will confirm availability asap. Storage facilities are available, so any extra luggage can be left in the accommodation during your time spent in huts. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains, we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Subject to weather and climbing conditions, the plan is as follows. Please note that this is a sample itinerary only – on trips like this, itineraries are always subject to change as the current weather and climbing conditions need to be taken into account. This is an essential part of safety planning for all mountaineering, so please be ready for changes as part of your trip.

Due to the altitude experienced on this trip, we recommend that you arrive a day or two early if possible, to spend some time acclimatising via the local cablecar network and with some mountain walking.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel to Saas Grund on Saturday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment, before we go on to discuss every ones ambitions for the week, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our planning.

We’ll also have maps and guidebooks to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.

Sunday

Hut approach and rock climbing/training

We start in Saas Almagel in order to walk up to the Almageller Hut.  The hut approach begins with a short chairlift ride, followed by an idyllic 3hr walk up via Almageller Alp.  We’ll stop for a picnic lunch en route and arrive at the hut mid afternoon.

In the afternoon we will cover some climbing movement and ropework skills, on the cliffs of the Dri Horlini near the hut. This will help to prepare you for the week ahead.

Monday

Weissmies (4017m) – via the classic SE Ridge.

One of the areas most famous peaks. After a pre dawn start, we make our way up to the Zwischbergenpass and then turn left to approach the SE Ridge of the Weissmies via a series of snow slopes.  Once on the ridge, the climbing is varied and interesting with a succession of short scrambly pitches – depending on how much snow there is on the route, we’ll decide whether or not to wear crampons along this section.  The ridge gains height to a flatter snowy section at 3900m, where finally a classic alpine snow crest leads to the summit. Here we enjoy some amazing views and a welcome rest, before starting the quick descent on the opposite side of the mountain, down to the Hohsaas or Weissmies hut.

We may also choose to climb the Weissmies via the Rotgrat, a slightly more difficult route from the Almageller hut, involving more sustained climbing than the SE ridge.

Tuesday

Lagginhorn (4010m) – via the West ridge standard route

From the Hohsaas or Weissmies hut. One of the few 4000m peaks that can be climbed without crossing a glacier, and a great follow on peak to the Weissmies forming a high alpine ‘enchainment’ of two 4000m summits in two days. It can also be climbed in a day trip if necessary, via the Hohsaas cable car from Saas, allowing some flexibility in our program. The route involves a lot of scrambling over rough blocky terrain with increasing exposure as height is gained, to the final steeper summit section. This can hold snow or ice at times, early in the season, and require us to change into crampons. The summit offers magnificent views of the entire Mischabel chain.

Return to the valley via the cablecar, and overnight in Saas Grund.

Wednesday

An active rest day. After climbing 2 x 4000m summits back to back, we can enjoy an easier day climbing on the Jegihorn above Saas Grund.

This is an excellent rocky peak with some great scrambles, moderate multipitch rock climbs and also a famous via ferrata.

Access is very quick and easy, via the cablecar system from the centre of Saas.

Overnight in Saas Grund.

Thursday

Ascend to the Mischabel hut

A long but very scenic hut walk, involving some via ferrata style ladders and scrambling in the upper section to reach one of the most dramatically situated huts in the Valais Alps and the third highest SAC hut in Switzerland. It stands on a rocky outcrop at over 3300m, with incredible views along the Mischabel chain and over the valley towards the Lagginhorn and Weissmies range.

Friday

Nadelhorn (4327m) – via the North East ridge

A perfect way to finish our week in the high mountains, the Nadelhorn offers a superb high altitude climb, starting with some glacial terrain and then climbing a gradually narrowing snow crest to a final rocky summit scramble.

The summit views are tremendous in every direction, along the Nadelgrat to the neighbouring Lenzspitze and beyond to the Matterhorn. Our descent takes us back down the same route to the Mischabel hut, followed by the long walk back to the valley.

Overnight in Saas Grund.

Other Peaks

Allalinhorn (4027m)

Due to it’s proximity to the Saas Fee lift system, the Allalinhorn is one of the most accessible 4000m peaks in Switzerland. Via the standard route it makes a great option for a short day, if poor weather prevents on of the more involved 4000’ers from being attempted. It can also be climbed from the Brittania hut via its classic East ridge – the Hohlaubgrat. This is a beautiful ascent involving some steeper snowy terrain, snow ridges and a short technical rocky section, offering some exposed but well protected climbing high on the ridge. The route is graded PD+/AD- and decent is made via the standard route to the Alpine Metro. This makes a fine alternative to the Nadelhorn for teams with tired legs!

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.  For this trip, do not plan to fly home after climbing on Friday – as if our return to the valley is later in the day, then there’s a risk of missing an evening flight.

Your course starts in the magnificent alpine valley of Saas Grund. The most common way to reach Saas Grund (SG) is fly into Geneva, then take a train along the Rhone Valley, then onward bus service to SG. Alternatively, fly into Zurich or Basel.

Flights and transfers

• Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
• Train and Post Bus from Geneva airport to SG: https://www.sbb.ch/en/home.html (integrated Swiss travel website, displays all connecting bus and train services).
• Alternatively fly to Basel or Zurich then take the train, as above.
• If you plan to arrive by train, then purchasing a Swiss Travel Pass (details on website above) could save you some money on this course, as you get half fare on the trains and cable cars in many resorts, as well as on the trains and buses. If you purchase a Swiss card the journey from the airport to the course base and back will be included.
• Alternatively hire a car at any airport (all 3-4 hours driving time).

For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page.

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 3, and Tech Level 2 (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing).

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 40-50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Tech Level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.