La Grave Ice Climbing

Fitness level
Tech level
Number of guiding days
5
Guiding ratio
1:2

The unspoilt mountain village of La Grave lies in the southern French Alps and is renowned as one of the ice climbing Meccas of France. It’s possible to check out conditions from the hotel window, as the icefalls are so close to town! On our La Grave Ice Climbing Course, we start on the local icefalls around La Grave, then later in the week we usually travel to other top venues around the region such as the Vallon du Diable, Fournel and Ceillac in the Queyras National Park. Short approaches and comfortable accommodation in the hotel Edelweiss, combined with the great variety of climbing on offer, make this an excellent venue for an alpine ice climbing holiday.

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£1595

Need further information?

I just wanted to take a minute to say thanks again for an outstanding week ice climbing in La Grave. My confidence and ability raised very quickly primarilly because of the way the course was run, being given casual pointers of technique and keeping the grade of ice in touch with my learning curve. I would recommend it to everyone who enjoys summer mixed climbing and wants have a lot of safe fun on ice. Thanks again.

Chris Goodwin

I just wanted to take a minute to say thanks again for an outstanding week ice climbing in La Grave. My confidence and ability raised very quickly primarilly because of the way the course was run, being given casual pointers of technique and keeping the grade of ice in touch with my learning curve. I would recommend it to everyone who enjoys summer mixed climbing and wants have a lot of safe fun on ice. Thanks again.

Chris Goodwin

Just wanted to again say thank you for the education and the great time I received with you in La Grave. I am now able to lead confidently and explore new terrain. This year I was able to use that experience on two new routes in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, climbing snow, rock and alpine ice. I highly recommend your courses to anyone who wants to learn from the best and step up their own climbing.

John Graham

We had a fantastic time. Jon was very patient with us and taught us loads. He was very attentive, ensuring our equipment and the hired stuff was up to scratch – even to the point of sharpening our crampons overnight. He made sure we were comfortable with what we were climbing but still encouraged us to push ourselves just beyond what we would have thought our comfort zones were. Climbing was fantastic and the places he took us were superb. Very pleased with the Edelweiss too. All in all a bloody good holiday. Thanks to you, Al and of course Jon for making it such a cracker. I think it’s safe to say we’ll be in touch pretty soon to organise something else.

Martin Whitehead

It was a fantastic trip – thanks a lot. Jon is a great guy – he took very good care of me – it was a lot of fun and I also felt very safe climbing with him. Thanks a lot for organizing the whole thing – definitely the highlight of the year for me.

Dmitry Solomakhin

Trip overview

The unspoilt mountain village of La Grave lies in the southern French Alps and is renowned as one of the ice climbing Meccas of France. It’s possible to check out conditions from the hotel window, as the icefalls are so close to town! On our La Grave Ice Climbing Course, we start on the local icefalls around La Grave, then later in the week we usually travel to other top venues around the region such as the Vallon du Diable, Fournel and Ceillac in the Queyras National Park. Short approaches and comfortable accommodation in the hotel Edelweiss, combined with the great variety of climbing on offer, make this an excellent venue for an alpine ice climbing holiday.

Please visit our Covid-19 Climb Information page for Covid FAQs, details of our new participation requirements, travel advice and what to expect on your trip.


Climbing In La Grave

For novices there is an emphasis on teaching basic skills and improving technique, with plenty of routes at WI grade 3. For the more experienced, the area boasts numerous sought after big classics at WI4, with continued coaching in technical and movement skills, and for experienced climbers we can deliver a demanding week tackling some of the areas big classics at WI5 and above.

Trip Reports >> Report 1


Suitability

This trip is suitable for all levels from introductory to advanced level. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 2 or above and Tech Level 2 or above (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). We aim to team you up with a suitably experienced partner on each course, but some variation in experience can usually differentiated by lead coaching the stronger member if appropriate. For intro level courses, you need no previous ice experience but should have climbed on rock previously – ie be able to tie on and belay safely. At intermediate level you need some previous snow or ice experience (in Scotland or the Alps) to get the most out of the week and at advanced level you should have previously climbed Scottish grade IV/V before starting the course.


Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.


Included in price

  • 5 days of guiding
  • All guides expenses
  • 6 nights accommodation including breakfast and evening meals
  • Local travel in guides vehicle to complete course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

  • Lunches and drinks
  • Flights and transfers to resort
  • Insurance
  • Equipment hire

Hotel

Our course base and meeting point is the friendly and comfortable Hotel Edelweiss in La Grave, run by British/Dutch couple Robin and Marlon. The Edelweiss is an excellent base with very good food (and a huge wine list!), drying room, wifi access, a sauna/spa, and a cosy bar – a great place to relax after a day on the ice. Situated in the centre of the village, it’s close to some bakeries, supermarkets and a couple of equipment shops, and there’s a good range of routes available right from the hotel door. Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally triple) sharing basis, but if you wish to book a single room please let us know at the time of booking and we will confirm availability. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.


ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Detailed Itinerary

Sunday

You should arrange outward travel on Sunday, arriving by 6-7pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will discuss plans for the week and check equipment.


Monday to Friday

Classic icefall climbs of the Oisans region, with ascents and skills training tailored to your requirements. Typical coaching areas include:

Foundation skills:

  • Front pointing
  • Axe Technique
  • Winter Belaying

Intermediate skills:

  • Ice screws and protection
  • Stance organisation
  • Abolakov anchors
  • Descending safely

Advanced skills:

  • Lead coaching
  • Maximising protection
  • Leashless climbing etc

Fri PM – course debrief and advice for the future.


Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Location and Travel

Your course base is La Grave on the northern edge of the Ecrins National Park. This tiny village sits amongst spectacular scenery below the north face of La Meije and is built around the mountain road between Grenoble and Briancon to the east.


Arrival

The most common way to reach La Grave is to fly to Grenoble Isere Airport on a Saturday and then take a transfer bus from the airport to La Grave, or on a Sunday and hire a car.


Flights and transfers

  • Fly to Grenoble:
  • There are 4 transfer buses to La Grave each Saturday, leaving the airport at 9.45, 12.35, 13.45, 16.40 to connect with flights scheduled to land at up to 15.50 – book tickets on the Bensbus  website – https://www.bensbus.co.uk/  For flights arriving later than this, you can take a Bensbus transfer to Lac du Chambon, then a taxi to La Grave (see details below)
  • Four Saturday return Bensbuses run from La Grave back to Grenoble airport (05.10, 7.40, 10.35, 13.50).
  • For Sunday flights, it’s possible to get a Bensbus transfer to Lac du Chambon, then arrange a taxi pick up with Taxi de la Meije – http://www.taxidelameije.com/home/ (tel: +33 679 53 45 67)
  • For travelling on other days of the week it’s possible to get a bus into Grenoble, then another one on to La Grave – but these are also time restricted.
  • Fly to Lyon: https://www.skyscanner.net/
  • There is a direct bus service from Lyon Airport to La Grave for a limited part of the season – each Saturday between 7th Feb and 6th March there are 3 Linkbus buses to La Grave, leaving the airport mid morning, mid afternoon and tea time. Visit the Linkbus website: https://www.linkbus-alps.com/en/ to download timetables and buy tickets.  Likewise, Linkbus run return direct buses from La Grave to Lyon Airport on the same dates.
  • For all other dates of the season, take a Bensbus transfer to Lac du Chambon – https://www.bensbus.co.uk/ (4 buses on a Saturday, 1 on Sundays and midweek days), then arrange a taxi pick up with Taxi de la Meije – http://www.taxidelameije.com/home/ (tel: +33 679 53 45 67)
  • Fly to Geneva.
  • Bus from Geneva Airport to Grenoble GR (6 buses a day, travel time ~2hrs): www.aerocar.fr
  • Bus from Grenoble GR to La Grave.

Alternatively, hire a car from any airport – driving times to La Grave are 1.45hrs from Grenoble airport, 2.30hrs from Lyon airport and 3 hours from Geneva airport.  NB you must hire a car with winter tyres or snow chains – as you will be crossing high mountain passes in winter, where special equipment is compulsory.


Other travel options

  • Driving from the UK, take the ferry or Eurotunnel to Calais/Dunkerque, then 10-12 hours driving on the French Autoroutes (budget approx 90 Euros each way in tolls).
  • Euroline coach: www.eurolines.co.uk/en
  • Eurostar train from the UK to Lyon, then onward train/bus as above: www.eurostar.com/uk-en

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.


Fitness and Experience

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 2, and Tech Level 2 to 5 (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing). Trips are tailored to the ability of the team.

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30-40 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.


Tech Level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

Tech Level 5
Very experienced climber. Regularly lead multipitch E1+ trad rock / ice and mixed routes at Scottish 5+ or WI5 /  alpine routes at grade D and above. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have very extensive experience climbing at this level.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

Equipment

Alpine Ice Kit List

Equipment can take a real hammering in winter-time, so a substantial hardshell is preferred, rather than lightweight summer waterproofs.

Technical Clothing

  • Waterproof Jacket – full weight breathable model preferred
  • Waterproof trousers – durable model with 3/4 or full length side zips
  • Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
  • Gaiters – made from breathable material
  • Wicking thermal baselayer tops – synthetic not cotton!
  • Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
  • 2nd fleece – or equivalent insulating mid-layer
  • Belay jacket – down or synthetic insulation
  • Powerstretch tights or warm mountain trousers – should fit comfortably under your waterproof trousers
  • Thin inner gloves
  • Warm mountain gloves – Goretex or equivalent water/windproof model
  • Second pair of mountain gloves as above – one pair will often get wet
  • Hat or balaclava – must fit under a helmet.
  • Spare mittens – especially if you suffer from cold hands

Personal Items

  • Water Container – at least 1 litre
  • Headtorch and batteries
  • Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
  • Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
  • Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
  • Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
  • Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
  • Wallet and passport
  • Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Technical Equipment

  • Rucsac 40-50l – to handle extra winter kit
  • Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch icefall routes (optional)
  • *Rigid 4 season mountaineering bootsAxe, Boot and Crampon advice
  • Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
  • 120cm sling and locking karabiner
  • Climbing helmet
  • Technical ice axe and ice hammer
  • Crampons – vertically orientated front points are best, or sharp new mountaineering crampons are also fine
  • Snowshoes or ski mountaineering equipment for Winter Couloirs/Norwegian ice climbing trips – please contact us for advice

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.


Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent mountain boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.


Insurance

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.

Book Now

£1595