On our Dolomites Alpine Rock Climbing Holiday, we target classic routes in this most famous rock climbing region of the Alps. The Dolomites are legendary – with their incredible towers and walls being home to some of the best rock routes in Europe, all set amongst stunning mountain scenery. Their are thousands of climbs of all lengths and difficulties, from mellow classics to steep and sustained wall climbs in the higher grades.

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This is an intermediate level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 3 and Tech Level 3-4 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines). You should be capable of climbing VS or above, and be comfortable with multi pitch abseil descents and exposed scrambling terrain. Our objectives require stamina and a reasonable technical level but most are not too committing, so therefore this is an ideal first/second alpine trip for those with a solid UK rock climbing background.

Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding and instruction
• All guides expenses
• 7 nights hotel accommodation including breakfast
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Any cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Evening meals
• Travel to resort
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Hotel

Our base for the week is the amazing, family run 3* Fiori Dolomites Experience Hotel in San Vito di Cadore, 10km south of Cortina D’Ampezzo. The hotel offers an excellent buffet breakfast, an afternoon snack buffet, comfortable rooms, and a wellness area with a sauna and steam bath etc. Rooms are provided on a twin sharing basis.  In the evening we will eat out in one of the hotels partner restaurants nearby. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel on Saturday, arriving by 6pm in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment, before we go on to discuss everyones ambitions for the week, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our planning.

We’ll also have maps and guidebooks to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.

Sunday to Friday

6 days of alpine rock climbing, using San Vito di Cadore as our base. There is a lifetimes worth of climbing within an hours drive of our hotel. Many routes can be reached by parking on one of the many famous road cols, followed by a short approach walk which can usually be done wearing approach shoes/trainers. Some routes have a longer more complex approach using high mountain trails and via ferrata, and some climbs are best approached via cablecar. The diversity of climbing and situations is incredible, with shorter climbs easily possible in a half day, in the event of mixed weather conditions, and longer 12/15+ pitch climbs for big days out on the higher peaks.

Venues and Climbs

Here are some example areas, but there are many more to choose from.

Tre Cima

One of the most famous areas in the central Dolomites, with many steep and famous routes, many of which were landmarks in the history of alpine rock climbing, such as the Comici Route on the Cima Grande. The area also has some easier and more accessible climbs in the VS – HVS range, in incredible surroundings. A trip up the normal route on the Cima Grande is also a great outing for a traditional mountaineering day out, at AD.

Misurina

A collection of smaller peaks including Torre Wundt and Punta Col de Varda, offering very accessible climbs, just to the north of Cortina.

Falzarego Pass

The Falzrego pass is a high alpine col, easily reached by road and with a good range of multipitch routes, all within 30 mins walk. The Falzarego Towers, Col Dei Bos, Hexenstein, and Lagazuoi Piccolo offer lots of quality climbing on their sunny south facing walls, with easy access and descents. This area played a key role in the First World War, and there are many trenches, tunnels and war relics to explore too, including to famous Lagazuoi tunnels deep in the heart of the mountain.

Tofana de Roses

One of the most famous peak in the Dolomites with a superb collection of routes, centred around the imposing pillars on its south face. The routes here are mainly in the tougher grades, but the Southeast Arete of Primo Spigolo is an excellent mid grade objective, giving 14 pitches of steep and satisfying climbing at around VS/HVS.

Cinque Torre

A collection of amazing small towers with a wide variety of routes across the grades, both single and multipitch. One of the most accessible areas and a great place to warm up, all with great views of the Tofana de Roses.

Sella Pass

Further from our base, but worth a trip. One of the most famous passes in the Dolomites with a complex series of towers holding may great climbs and some of the best quality rock in the area.

Gardena Pass

Again, a longer journey from our base. Many accessible climbs including the impressive south face of the Sas Ciampac and its collection of 400-500m long routes. Amongst these, the Old South Face route is a classic VS with good positions and interesting route finding, culminating in a characterful final chimney.

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Your meeting point and base for the week is San Vito di Cadore in the Italian Dolomites. The most convenient way to reach San Vito is to fly to Venice Marco Polo Airport, then take the Cortina transfer bus which stops in San Vito, just 10km south of Cortina. Return travel should be arranged on the day after your final nights accommodation.

Flights and transfers

• Fly to Venice Marco Polo Airport. Suitable flights are available from the UK with Easyjet from Gatwick and there are also indirect flights from various other locations.
• There are approx 8 transfer buses to San Vito di Cadore each day (and also returning to Venice at the end of the trip), leaving throughout the day.  Book tickets on the Cortina Express website – https://www.cortinaexpress.it/en/

Alternatively, hire a car from any airport – driving times to San Vito are 2hrs from Venice Marco Polo and Treviso airports and 3hrs from Trieste and Verona airports.  NB you must hire a car with winter tyres or snow chains – as you will be crossing high mountain passes in winter, where special equipment is compulsory.

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Wicking thermal top – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
• Spare warm layer – lightweight synthetic/down jacket or other warm layer
• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock climbing shoes – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.