Climb the Eiger via the famous Mittellegi Ridge – an amazing ascent of one of the Alps most iconic peaks. The route offers wild exposure with stunning views, great rock climbing, some fixed ropes and a long and involved descent via the South Ridge – a great all round challenge for seasoned mountaineers. Following an acclimatisation program in the Saas valley, we move across to Grindelwald to target the best weather window for a successful summit bid.

Trip Info

The acclimatisation and training program at the start of the week is guided at 2:1. This will focus on routes which are of a similar style to the Eiger – climbing long multi-pitch rock climbs and rocky/mixed ridges, wearing mountain boots. The focus will be on both acclimatisation and efficient movement on this type of ground, whilst also tuning in to the exposure and general character of these types of climbs. From mid week we will climb at 1:1 ratio on the Eiger itself. All routes on the Eiger are long and committing days, so good conditions are required to safely reach the summit.

Suitability

This is an advanced level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 3-4 and Tech Level 3-4 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). You need previous AD alpine climbing experience as well as being able to climb UK grade V Diff/Severe rock easily in big boots with a rucksack on. Depending on conditions, the routes involve high-quality ridge climbing with pitches up to grade V Diff/Severe rock or Scottish III mixed. Climbing the Eiger requires good levels of fitness and stamina, as the summit day involves 8-10 hours technical climbing at altitude.

Guiding ratio

This is a split ratio week, with 3 training days guided at 1:2, then 3 days at 1:1 ratio to climb the Eiger, with IFMGA guides.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding
• All guides expenses
• 2 nights hotel accommodation in the Saas valley including breakfast and evening meals
• 2 nights in mountain huts in Saas/the Valais Alps incl. breakfast and evening meals
• 1 night in the Mittellegi hut incl. breakfast and evening meal
• 1 night in a Grindelwald hotel, or further Bernese Oberland mountain hut incl. breakfast and evening meal (depending on the final outcome of the trip)
• 1 night hotel accommodation in Brig (in the Rhone valley) including breakfast – the final night of the trip.
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary (including travel to Grindelwald from Saas, and back to Brig to end the trip)

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Cable cars and Jungfraujoch train
• Lunches and drinks
• Friday nights evening meal (there are various restaurants in Brig)
• Travel to resort
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Hotels

Our meeting point and base in the Saas valley is the Hotel Adler in Saas Grund. Rooms are provided on a twin sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know and we will confirm availability. On the final night, we stay in the Hotel Europe in Brig, situated in the Rhone valley.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains, we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel on Saturday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment for the week, before we go on to a detailed discussion of everyone’s ambitions for the week, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our planning. We’ll also have maps and guidebooks to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.

Sunday to Tuesday

Training and acclimatisation

Our training program focuses on getting you acclimatised, whilst climbing good quality alpine terrain similar to that found on the Eiger – ie a mixture of rock climbing and mixed rock / snow ridges.

The initial 3 days are flexible, to work around current weather and conditions. We aim to spend Sunday and Monday nights in some of the excellent mountain huts around the Saas valley eg the Almageller hut, the Weissmies hut and the Hohsaas hut. From these huts, a combination of two or three of the following routes would typically be achievable:

Jegihorn – Various rock climbing objectives including easier rocky scrambles, and some excellent multipitch rock climbs up to 10+ pitches in length, that can be climbed wearing mountain boots.

Mittelruck – A nice rocky ridge climb of medium difficulty – PD/AD

Portschengrat – A long and fairly involved rock ridge traverse AD

Dri Horlini – The local classic of its type – airy ridge traversing on fantastic rock, AD

Weissmies – Rotgrat (PD+) – an excellent long rocky ridge route, to the summit of this famous and popular 4000m peak

Lagginhorn – South Ridge (AD) – an excellent mountaineering route involving exposed rocky ridge climbing to the summit of this classic 4000m peak.

Fletchhorn – Lagginhorn traverse (AD) – a fine ridge traverse, initially following the standard route to the Fletschhorn (just under 4000m), a descent to the Fletschjoch, and then the rocky NNE ridge of the Lagginhorn, leading directly to its summit.

Tuesday evening – descend to our Saas Grund hotel, and overnight in the valley.

Wednesday

Travel To Grindelwald

Travel across to Grindelwald in the morning, then take the mountain railway up through the Eiger itself, before heading to the Mittellegi Hut for the night.

Climbing Conditions on the Eiger – our main goal,  the Mittellegi Ridge has a tricky hut approach and exposed technical climbing on both rock and snowy crests near the summit, and ideally needs to be dry and relatively free of snow on the rocky sections to make a safe and efficient ascent. If the Eiger is out of condition (this can sometimes happen after a prolonged period of bad weather), then a similar high quality alternative on another peak will be offered.

Thursday

Climb The Eiger

Mittellegi Ridge:  Alpine grade D (Difficile). The climb starts with the ascent to the Mittellegi Hut from the Eismeer station, which is a technical day in it’s own right.  The hut is in a magnificent spot, right on the crest of the ridge ready for the climb the next day.  Leaving at dawn, the climbing begins straight away, on rocky ridge terrain, with several sections of fixed rope in the upper half.  The final section of the Mittellegi Ridge to the summit is snowier, usually requiring crampons.  The descent is via the long South Ridge, involving some abseiling plus traversing on rock, mixed terrain and snowy ridge crests. This leads to the Monchjoch and Monchjoch Hut, then onwards for a short distance to the Jungfraujoich railway and final descent to Grindelwald.

Friday

Reserve Day

If the weather/conditions prevent us from attempting the Mittellegi on Thursday, we may use Friday for a final attempt at the Eiger. If we succeed in climbing the Eiger on Thursday, then Friday may be used for some further mountain activities, rock climbing or the amazing Rotstock via Ferrata, next to the infamous Eiger north face.

Friday late afternoon – transfer in the guides vehicle to Brig in the Rhone valley for the final night. Brig is located on the Rhone valley railway line with excellent rail links to Geneva or Zurich (approx 2.5 hours journey).

NB, if conditions/other factors dictate, we may attempt the Eiger by its equally classic South Ridge (AD) instead of the Mittellegi Ridge. This involves taking the train to the Jungfraujoch, and spending a night in the Monchsjoch hut from where we would start the ascent.

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged from Brig on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Your course starts in the magnificent alpine valley of Saas Grund. The most common way to reach Saas Grund (SG) is fly into Geneva, then take a train along the Rhone Valley, then onward bus service to SG. Alternatively, fly into Zurich or Basel.

Flights and transfers

• Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
• Train and Post Bus from Geneva airport to SG: https://www.sbb.ch/en/home.html (integrated Swiss travel website, displays all connecting bus and train services).
• Alternatively fly to Basel or Zurich then take the train, as above.
• If you plan to arrive by train, then purchasing a Swiss Travel Pass (details on website above) could save you some money on this course, as you get half fare on the trains and cable cars in many resorts, as well as on the trains and buses. If you purchase a Swiss card the journey from the airport to the course base and back will be included.
• Alternatively hire a car at any airport (all 3-4 hours driving time).

For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page.

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 3+, and Tech Level 3+ (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing).

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 40-50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Wicking thermal top – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
• Spare warm layer – lightweight synthetic/down jacket or other warm layer
• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock climbing shoes – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.