Chamonix Alpinist Week

Fitness level
Tech level
Number of guiding days
6
Guiding ratio
1:2

Our Chamonix Alpine Climbing Holiday is ideal for mountaineers who have completed an alpine intro course, or done some UK rock/winter climbing before and now want to cut their teeth on longer, more technical routes and high quality alpine summits. Chamonix is justly famous for its high concentration of classic routes across all grades and styles of climbing: classic multi-pitch rock routes, ice gullies and faces, mixed routes, and classic alpine ridges on snow and rock are all on the tick list.

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£1950

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We had a brilliant time with Phil, he was a great guide and a lot of fun. The routes we did like the Dent du Geant were fantastic and exactly what we asked for – i.e. something that we could not do on our own. He also built us for an ascent on Mt Blanc well and somehow we managed to get up and down on our own! Thanks again, a really memorable holiday.

Bob Davidson

Wow guys, I’ve just had a few weeks to reflect on my week with Big Tim and young Ben – awesome! We had a week of perfect weather and cool and assured guiding and leadership from Tim. Cruising around above Chamonix and then being tested totally on the harder pitches on the Peigne and Geant – it really was just the week I needed. After a few years without being guided, having fun on easier stuff with mates, it felt like money well spent. I feel that I certainly improved my all round alpine skills and got up stuff that I couldn’t possibly of led myself. Thanks Guys for getting it all sorted and a big thank you to Tim.

Phil Warner

We had a great time with both Rob and with Al. Many thanks to them both as well as to you, Rich for help organising things. Chalet Tissieres also looked after us very well. The guiding was great – we learned quite a lot without it being too “instructional” and … the weather was exceptionally favourable so we managed a superb program of enjoyable and yet challenging (for us) routes. Matthew is already wondering when we can tackle other, slightly harder routes such as the Matterhorn and the Eiger. I think we will give it another couple of years but we do hope to be back in due course.

Simon Theobald

I’m back in London: life here is not quite as exciting as climbing the chere couloir! Maybe I’ve acquired a new addiction! I loved it actually, Mark did a great job and made the most of the variable weather to do some great stuff. I also learnt how to climb at pace, or somewhere starting to approach it, at least. The course with Al was fantastic too, and it was great to be guided by people clearly at the top of their game and happy to share their knowledge and skills. If I’m lining up another trip next year or I’m in the Chamonix area again for e.g. skiing, I’ll definitely get in touch.

James Tindal-Robertson

We just wanted to touch base with you before we have too many beers this evening and let you know how much we have enjoyed our week with Lori. He has been a great guide and taken us to some awesome places as well as managing to keep both Giles (who is far more experienced than me) and I happy. We both learnt a lot, had some great climbing and really enjoyed his company. We very much hope to spend time with him again on a future Alpine Guides adventure. Thanks again for organizing a great week, we are already looking forward to Stubai!

Laura Newnham

Trip overview

Our Chamonix Alpine Climbing Holiday is ideal for mountaineers who have completed an alpine intro course, or done some UK rock/winter climbing before and now want to cut their teeth on longer, more technical routes and high quality alpine summits. Chamonix is justly famous for its high concentration of classic routes across all grades and styles of climbing: classic multi-pitch rock routes, ice gullies and faces, mixed routes, and classic alpine ridges on snow and rock are all on the tick list.

Climbing at 2:1 all week allows us to tailor the program to your particular ambitions, ability and the prevailing mountain conditions, with typical grades in the range PD+ to AD+.

Recent Trip Reports:

Need further information? Enquire about this trip


Suitability

This is an intermediate level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 2 and Tech Level 3 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). To get the most out of this course you need to either have prior alpine experience or have climbed at least Scottish II in winter and UK rock grade Severe (or equivalent).


Guiding ratio

One UIAGM guide climbing with 2 clients.


Included in price

  • 6 days of guiding
  • All guides expenses
  • 4 nights accommodation in the Chamonix valley, including breakfast and evening meals**
  • 3 nights accommodation in mountain huts, including breakfast and evening meals
  • Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

  • Cable cars
  • Lunches and drinks
  • Travel to resort
  • Insurance
  • Equipment hire

Hotels

Our meeting point and Chamonix valley base is Chalet Tissieres in Les Bossons, just 5 mins by car/bus from Chamonix centre. The chalet stands in its own 2000m2 alpine garden with stunning panoramic views of Mont Blanc and the entire Chamonix valley. It offers simple but comfortable shared rooms, a large lounge/dining area, honesty bar, and a huge balcony for al fresco dining on warm summer evenings: a great place to relax after a big day in the mountains. The chalet serves a buffet breakfast and varied 3 course evening meal**, with special diets catered for upon request. Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally 4-6 person) sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know and we will confirm availability. **The chef has one night off each week – this day will include bed and breakfast only, but the chalet will recommend an alternative local restaurant. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.


Huts

For overnights in the high mountains, we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

(NB ‘Course Only’ Options are also available. If you’d like to book a place on the course only and arrange your own accommodation, then please get in touch).

Detailed Itinerary

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel on Sunday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment for the week, before we go on to discuss everyones ambitions for the week, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our planning. We’ll also have maps and guidebooks to show you. If you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.


Sunday

Acclimatisation Climb

Ascent of a high quality mountain route in order to acclimatise and brush up on alpine skills.

Day 1 is normally a warm up day in order to find your feet on alpine terrain again and get used to the altitude.  Typical outings might include a mid altitude rock route in the Aiguilles Rouges or Chamonix Aiguilles, an alpine ridge climb like the Aig D’Entreves, or a shorter face climb like the Aig du Toule NW Face.

Overnight in valley.


Monday to Tuesday

2 Day Trip – staying in an alpine hut overnight.

Our plan is to climb 2 good quality routes, with an early alpine start on the second day in order to attempt a longer, more involved objective.

Here are some typical objectives – this is just a tiny sample, as there are thousands of good climbs at all grades in the range.

Multipitch Climbs:

  • Tacul North Face Routes
  • Pyramide du Tacul
  • Chapelle de la Gliere

Ridge Traverses:

  • Table de Roc Ridge
  • Aiguille D’Entreves

Technical Summits:

  • Tour Ronde
  • Aiguille du Peigne

Please let us know any climbs in the Mont Blanc range that you have done before, so we can plan accordingly.

Tue PM return to Chamonix. Overnight in valley.


Wednesday to Friday

3 day trip – staying in huts Wed and Thur nights.

This gives us more time to access some of the more remote huts in the Mont Blanc massif. Possible objectives include:

Couvercle Hut

  • Aiguille du Moine
  • La Nonne-Eveque Traverse

Dalmazzi Hut

  • Aiguille du Savoie
  • Mont Rouges du Triolet

Monzino Hut

  • Aiguille Croux
  • Punta Innominata

Argentiere Hut

  • Aiguille du Genepi
  • Aiguille d’Argentiere.

If you have any particular ambitions or specific objectives in mind for the week, then please let us know when you book – so that we can tailor the itinerary accordingly, in order to give you the greatest chance of success.

Fri PM – return to the valley for a debrief, exchange of photos etc and farewells.


Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Early departures – if you choose to depart on Friday night, please leave plenty of time for repacking and airport transfer. You will typically be back at the hotel by 4-5pm at the latest, so choose a flight departing after 9-10pm.

Location and Travel

We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access.


Arrival

The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley – transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance.


Flight and transfers

  • Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
  • Airport transfer from Geneva to Chamonix: Mountain Drop-offs offer the best all round service, with regular reliable transfers through the season. They offer a shared minibus taxi service which meets you in the airport and drops you off at the door of your hotel. Book your transfer here and use promo code ALPGUID to receive a discount on your journey.
  • Alternatively hire a car at Geneva airport (1.2 hrs drive to Cham): www.arguscarhire.com / www.holidayautos.co.uk

Other travel options

  • Driving from UK, take the ferry or Eurotunnel to Calais/Dunkerque, then 9-10 hours driving on the French Autoroutes (budget approx 80 Euros each way in tolls).
  • Euroline coach UK to Chamonix (takes 1 day): www.eurolines.co.uk/en
  • Eurostar train from the UK to Lyon, then onward train service to Chamonix (excellent fast service): www.eurostar.com/uk-en

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.

Fitness and Experience

Alpine Mountaineering is a strenuous endurance sport – ie to get to the summit involves slogging up hill for hours on end!  Therefore, your fitness and power to weight ratio are very important factors for success.  Another important factor is altitude, which people react to in different ways and finally, you need the appropriate technical climbing ability for the trip – please check that you have the correct fitness and tech levels for your trip using the Tech Level and Fitness Level descriptions below.

Physical fitness
This is a key factor – you must be at the minimum Fitness Level quoted for your course (see descriptions below). However, the fitter you are the more you will enjoy it and the greater your chances of success. Being fit also helps you to recover more quickly between climbs during the week.

Your power to weight ratio
What shape you are has a big impact on your likelihood of success! Eg are you slim and athletic, a normal build, a bit overweight, or 1-2 stone or more overweight? If you are considerably overweight, your chances of making it to the summit are not high, even with reasonable fitness (although the two don’t usually go together), good weather and perfect conditions.  If you are carrying any excess weight, then you need to lose as much of this as possible before joining the trip.

Your personal acclimatization rate
All of our alpine trips involve an acclimatization climb at the start of the week, but everyone responds to altitude in different ways and personal speeds of acclimatization vary widely between individuals. Past experience is a fair indicator – so if you have coped Ok at altitude before eg. on a previous alpine trip, Kilimanjaro, or on a high altitude trek, then this should be good news. Conversely, if you have had problems or been slow to acclimatize before, then you definitely need to come out early, in order to pre acclimatize before the week starts – please contact us for further advice about this.

Training

If you need to top up your fitness for this trip, please see our training advice page.


Tech Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip suitability requirements.

Tech Level 1
Hillwalker/scrambler. You have UK hillwalking and perhaps summer UK scrambling, or European via ferrata experience – but no rock or ice climbing, or previous alpine mountaineering experience.

Tech level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

Tech Level 5
Very experienced climber. Regularly lead multipitch E1+ trad rock / ice and mixed routes at Scottish 5+ or WI5 /  alpine routes at grade D and above. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have very extensive experience climbing at this level.


Fitness Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip requirements. These are cardiovascular (CV) fitness and activity levels eg. running, cycling, hillwalking or competitive sports that get your heart and lungs working for extended periods of time (not strength training in the gym!).

Fitness Level 1
You do 1-2 hours of training/cardiovascular sport per week. Eg: you should be able to climb Snowdon from Pen y Pas in around 2 hrs carrying a day sack, or Bow Fell starting from Langdale in the Lake District in about 2 1/2 hrs.

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Fitness Level 5
You do 5-6+ hours training for competitive sport per week, have a background in the same, or you are annoyingly talented! Either way, doing a 100 ml bike ride or about a 3hr marathon wouldn’t be unreasonable.

Equipment

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

  • Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
  • Overtrousers – with long side zips
  • Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
  • Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
  • Wicking thermal tops – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
  • Fleece mid layer – or equivalent light insulating layer
  • Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
  • Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
  • Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
  • Warm hat – must fit under a helmet
  • Spare warm layer – fleece or lightweight synthetic belay jacket

Personal Items

  • Water Container – at least 1 litre
  • Headtorch and batteries
  • Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
  • Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
  • Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
  • Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
  • Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
  • Sun hat
  • Shorts
  • Wallet and passport
  • Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

  • Small wash kit
  • Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
  • Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
  • Ear plugs
  • (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

  • Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
  • Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
  • *Rigid mountaineering bootsAxe, Boot and Crampon advice
  • Rock boots – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
  • Approach shoes or trainers
  • Trekking poles
  • Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
  • 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
  • 120cm sling + locking karabiner
  • Climbing helmet
  • Crampons with antiball plates
  • Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
  • Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.


Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Ilkley offer an excellent mountain boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.


Insurance

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for the following activities: rock climbing and mountaineering in glaciated areas requiring the use of ropes, up to 5000m altitude. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury.

Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.


Insurance for UK residents

British Mountaineering Council. The gold standard in insurance for UK residents. Very competitive single trip or annual cover for all climbing activities. Use this link to book your BMC insurance.

European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This gives you reciprocal health care in European countries. You can apply for an EHIC card online here or from most Post Offices. You need an EHIC in addition to your travel insurance.


European residents (non-UK)
Austrian Alpine Club. Available to all European residents. AAC insurance is cheap and works ok for minor accidents and rescues, but is not as comprehensive as many other insurance providers. The medical cover included would not be enough for complex treatment or a prolonged stay in hospital. It also doesn’t include cancellation cover. If you choose to use AAC we recommend you take out extra medical cover with another provider, to ‘top up’ the AAC medical limit, as well as a separate cancellation policy.


USA residents

Travelex. For US citizens – a range of policies with comprehensive cover.


For any nationality

Global Rescue. Cover offered to all nationalities via a combination of GR membership and their separate insurance policy.


If you choose an alternative provider, or if there is any doubt about the scope of your chosen policy we recommend that you send your insurer the link to the relevant Alpine Guides trip webpage, and ask them if cover extends to those activities and has the required components (search/rescue, medical, repatriation and cancellation). It’s worth mentioning that rescue and medical expenses in Switzerland can be significantly more expensive than in other countries, so a decent level of cover is required for Swiss tours.

We recommend that you send us your insurance details before the trip commences, and they must be brought to the course briefing at the start of your trip. However, we cannot check the detail of every individual policy, and it is your own responsibility to ensure you are adequately insured.

FAQ's

What happens to my deposit if I book a trip, but it isn’t confirmed to run due to insufficient bookings?

You may transfer your booking to different dates, a different course, or choose a full refund.

See our terms and conditions


Does Alpine Guides climb with customers from overseas, including the USA and Canada?

Yes!

See our info for overseas customers


How do I book a climbing trip?

For scheduled climbing trips it’s easy to book online, directly from your course page. For hire a guide/bespoke courses please get in touch for a quote.

More booking information


Can I book a single room on my climbing trip?

Yes – this can be done during the online booking process. Please add the single room option to your order, and we will confirm availability asap.

More hotel information


How do I rent mountaineering equipment?

You can rent certain items of specialist equipment from us, and the rest can usually be hired in resort.

Climbing equipment rental info


What happens about accommodation, if the weather is very poor and we end up spending extra nights in the valley instead of in huts?

We will make any necessary last minute bookings for the team. On trips taking place outside the Chamonix valley, any extra valley hotel nights will be on a BnB basis rather than half board.

See our accommodation page for more details


What happens to our plans if the weather is bad, or climbing conditions are poor?

We will make every effort to stick to the itinerary, but sometimes its necessary to change plans and select different objectives more suited to the prevailing conditions, or travel to a neighbouring area or sometimes even further afield.

A sound mountaineering decision - running away....!


Who goes on our trips?

We climb and ski with a broad range of ages and experience levels, and a large number of our customers come back year after year. We’ve guided 10 year old Ollie up the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland – now the youngest person to climb it. And 70 year old David has climbed the Matterhorn with us, as well as out-skiing people half his age!

The Matterhorn at 70 yrs young


What happens if I need to cancel my course?

If you wish to cancel you must notify us in writing, where upon the following charges will be applied from the date we receive your notice of cancellation:

  • More than 8 weeks (56 days) before start date – loss of deposit.
  • Between 4 and 8 weeks (28-56 days) before start date – 50% of course fee or loss of deposit, whichever amount is greater.
  • Less than 4 weeks (28 days) before start date – full course fee.

See our terms and conditions


Book Now

£1950