This is a unique hut to hut rock climbing trip. We use the famous Via delle Bocchette Via Ferrata as a “highway” to access the multi-pitch climbs.  The Via delle Bocchette in the Brenta Dolomites is one of the best multi day Via Ferrata trips in the World. It is a journey through history, and some of the most striking landscapes the Alps have to offer. We will use this to do a high level tour, linking together some of the high quality rock climbs in the massif, whilst staying in a series of comfortable and uniquely positioned mountain refuges.

Trip Info

This trip is guided by IFMGA guide Cain Olsen – originally from the UK, now living in Italy, with an intimate knowledge of the Brenta.

Rich in ancient culture and tradition, the mountains and valleys of the Dolomiti (Dolomites) are largely protected as regional parks and are crisscrossed by a vast network of well-marked trails and via ferrata. These can offer rapid access into the heart of the mountains, and to many high quality rock climbs on the many pinnacles and towers that form the Brenta Dolomites.

Suitability

This is an intermediate+ level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 2-3 and Tech Level 3-4 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). You need some previous multi pitch rock climbing experience and also be comfortable making multi pitch abseil descents. We advise you to prepare well in advance with regular exercise and training.

Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding
• All guides expenses
• 2 nights accommodation in Ponte di Legno, including breakfast and evening meals
• 5 nights accommodation in mountain huts, including breakfast and evening meal
• Local travel – return transfers between Ponte di Legno to the tour starting point

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Travel to Ponte di Legno
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Valley Accommodation

Our start and end point for this trip is the excellent Chalet Olsen in Ponte di Legno, run by your guide Cain and his wife Alice – its a lovely spot, with great food and hospitality. Rooms are provided on a twin and triple sharing basis, with breakfast and evening meals included. Any extra luggage not required on the tour can be left until the end of the week. Accommodation details can be found on our Accommodation page.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical hut facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks and general info on hut etiquette.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Subject to weather and climbing conditions, the plan is as follows. Please note that this is a sample itinerary only – on trips like this, itineraries are always subject to change as the current weather and conditions need to be taken into account. This is an essential part of safety planning for all mountain activities, so please be ready for changes as part of your trip.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel on Saturday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment, before we go on to discuss plans for the week, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our route.

We’ll have maps and guidebooks of the area to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in Ponte di Legno.

Sunday – Corna Rossa

We will drive 1hr to Madonna di Campiglio and take the gondola to Passo Grostè. From here we walk downhill to Rifugio Graffer (20 minutes) and leave our night time belongings at the hut. 15 minutes walk from the hut, there are some single pitch crags and very easy short multi-pitch routes. For the less experienced, this is the ideal situation for us to do some coaching on climbing technique, belaying, abseiling and trad gear placement if you are interested in trad climbing. For the more experienced, we can do a 5-6 pitch multi-pitch climb on the Corna Rossa face. There are routes from French 4a to 7a. Depending on your ability and the schedule that we will have pre-planed together, we can spend more that one night at Rifugio Graffer or move on to the next hut the following day. Night at Rifugio Graffer

Monday – Castelletto Inferiore

The following day we will walk to the stunning Rifugio Tucket (1 hour) where there are some nice 200/300m multi-pitch climbs on Castelletto Inferiore. Night at Rifugio Tucket

Tuesday – Castelletto Inferiore

A second day climbing on Castelletto Inferiore. Night at Rifugio Tucket

Wednesday – Cima Brenta

Following one of the Via Ferratas, (Bocchette Alte or Sosat) we head to Rifugio Alimonta. If we take the Bocchette Alte, we can summit the highest peak of the Brenta Dolomites, Cima Brenta, 3150 metres. This is easy climbing (more of a scramble) but a long day. If we take the Sosat Ferrata, we get to the hut early and can the 7 pitch Torre Prati opposite Rifugio Alimonta. Night at Rifugio Alimonta

Thursday – Campanile Basso

We take the Via Ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali towards Rifugio Pedrotti. This Via Ferrata is stunning and passes directly under Campanile Basso. This is one of the most famous peaks of the Alps. if you see a photograph of it, you have to climb it! The Normal route is a masterpiece of climbing intuition and boldness for a route first climbed in 1910. Night at Rifugio Pedrotti

Friday – Cima d’Ambiez

After that we can hike to Rifugio Agostini and climb on the beautiful Cima d’Ambiez South face. There are many incredible routes to choose from. Then we can descend and take a transfer taxi back to Madonna di Campiglio and return to our accommodation in Ponte di Legno.

Saturday

Return travel to the airport  / homeward.

Your course meeting point is the arrivals hall at Bergamo Airport (BGY), before onward travel to Ponte di Legno.

Fly to Bergamo. Ryanair offer direct flights from Stansted, and other options are available.

We can arrange a private taxi transfer from the airport to the trip start point in Ponte di Legno – please get in touch if you are interested in this option, and we will coordinate taxi times within the group.

There are also 3 buses a day running between Bergamo Airport and Ponte di Legno – see details on the airport website: https://bergamo.arriva.it/milanoorio-al-serio-ponte-di-legno/

For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page.

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 2, and Tech Level 2 (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing).

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30-40 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.

Tech Level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Wicking thermal top – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
• Spare warm layer – lightweight synthetic/down jacket or other warm layer
• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock climbing shoes – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.