Stetind and Lofoten Rock

Fitness level
Tech level
Number of guiding days
6
Guiding ratio
1:2

Join us on a unique Arctic Norway rock climbing holiday, with a combination of world famous rock climbing on the Lofoten Islands and Norway’s National Mountain, the Stetind.  The region offers acres of high-quality granite, set amongst stunning fjord scenery and no time pressure thanks to 24 hour daylight! Summiting a classic peak under the midnight sun is an experience you will never forget – our main focus is the ultra classic South Pillar of Stetind, along with other local classics in the Ofoten region and Lofoten Islands.

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TBC

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Trip overview

Join us on a unique Arctic Norway rock climbing holiday, with a combination of world famous rock climbing on the Lofoten Islands and Norway’s National Mountain, the Stetind.  The region offers acres of high-quality granite, set amongst stunning fjord scenery and no time pressure thanks to 24 hour daylight! Summiting a classic peak under the midnight sun is an experience you will never forget – our main focus is the ultra classic South Pillar of Stetind, along with other local classics in the Ofoten region and Lofoten Islands.

Trip Reports >> Lofoten – Stetind Arctic Rock


Suitability

This is an advanced level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 3 and Tech Level 4 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines below). Previous multi-pitch rock climbing experience required, seconding at HVS, with good crack climbing technique. You should also be very comfortable on exposed multi-pitch abseil descents.


Guiding ratio

One UIAGM guide climbing with 2 clients.


Included in price

  • 6 days of guiding
  • All guides expenses, including travel, food and accommodation
  • Local travel in shared hire vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price

  • Food and accommodation
  • Travel to Norway
  • Insurance
  • Equipment hire
    (Budget approx £200-£300 to cover your food and accommodation – paid directly during the trip)

Accommodation

Accommodation is very flexible during this week, depending on weather and personal preference, but we mainly use excellent free camp sites in the mountains, or Rorbu (fisherman’s type cabins).

Detailed Itinerary

Friday

Outward travel to Norway, meeting with guide in UK/Oslo depending on flights. Arrive in time to collect hire vehicle and drive to venue. Camping below Stetind to start the week.


Saturday

Warm up route on Eidtinden south buttress. Camping at the base of Stetind.


Sunday – Thursday

Classic routes in the Ofoten region.

  • Stetind South Pillar
  • Kugelhornet East Ridge
  • Eidtinden

Lofoten classics – 4 hour journey by car/ferry to Lofoten.

  • Presten – Vestpillaren
  • Pillaren – Only Blueberries
    etc

Thursday evening

Drive back to the Evenes after the days climbing, overnight in local hotel, repack for flights.


Friday

Flights back to the UK.

Location and Travel

Your course meeting point is Evenes airport (EVE), between Harstad and Narvik: the gateway to the Lofoten Islands and Ofoten/Narvik region. The most convenient way to reach Narvik is fly to Oslo, with connecting flights on to Evenes airport (same airline). Your guide will collect you from Evenes airport at the start, and drop off at the end of the trip in time for return flights. For transfer to Stetind and travel during the trip, your guide will transport the team in a hire vehicle.


Flights

  • Norwegian and SAS airlines offer various flights from the UK, including London Gatwick, Manchester, Edinburgh and Aberdeen, which arrive in time for the evening pickup. Check Sky Scanner flight comparison site for your best option.

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.


Fitness and Experience

Training

If you need to top up your fitness for this trip, please see our training guidelines.


Tech Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip suitability requirements.

Tech Level 1
Hillwalker/scrambler. You have UK hillwalking and perhaps summer UK scrambling, or European via ferrata experience – but no rock climbing experience.

Tech Level 2
Novice climber. You have indoor or outdoor bolt protected sport climbing experience, or have seconded traditional naturally protected outdoor climbs up to V Diff/Severe standard. You haven’t done any outdoor trad leading.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. You have led single or multi pitch traditionally protected rock climbs up to Severe/VS. You are familiar with multipitch abseil descents.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. You lead multi pitch traditionally protected rock climbs at HVS standard. Alternatively, if you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

Tech Level 5
Very experienced climber. You regularly lead multipitch E1+ trad rock routes. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have very extensive experience seconding at this level.


Fitness Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip requirements. These are cardiovascular (CV) fitness and activity levels eg. running, cycling, hillwalking or competitive sports that get your heart and lungs working for extended periods of time (not strength training in the gym!).

Fitness Level 1
You do 1-2 hours of training/cardiovascular sport per week. Eg: you should be able to climb Snowdon from Pen y Pas in around 2 hrs carrying a day sack, or Bow Fell starting from Langdale in the Lake District in about 2 1/2 hrs.

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30-40 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Fitness Level 5
You do 5-6+ hours training for competitive sport per week, have a background in the same, or you are annoyingly talented! Either way, doing a 100 ml bike ride or about a 3hr marathon wouldn’t be unreasonable.

Equipment

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

  • Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
  • Overtrousers – with long side zips
  • Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
  • Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
  • Wicking thermal tops – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
  • Fleece mid layer – or equivalent light insulating layer
  • Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
  • Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
  • Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
  • Warm hat – must fit under a helmet
  • Spare warm layer – fleece or lightweight synthetic belay jacket

Personal Items

  • Water Container – at least 1 litre
  • Headtorch and batteries
  • Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
  • Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
  • Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
  • Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
  • Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
  • Sun hat
  • Shorts
  • Wallet and passport
  • Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

  • Small wash kit
  • Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
  • Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
  • Ear plugs
  • (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

  • Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
  • Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
  • *Rigid mountaineering bootsAxe, Boot and Crampon advice
  • Rock boots – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
  • Approach shoes or trainers
  • Trekking poles
  • Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
  • 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
  • 120cm sling + locking karabiner
  • Climbing helmet
  • Crampons with antiball plates
  • Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
  • Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.


Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Ilkley offer an excellent mountain boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.


Insurance

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for the following activities: rock climbing and mountaineering in glaciated areas requiring the use of ropes, up to 5000m altitude. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury.

Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.


Insurance for UK residents

British Mountaineering Council. The gold standard in insurance for UK residents. Very competitive single trip or annual cover for all climbing activities. Use this link to book your BMC insurance.

European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This gives you reciprocal health care in European countries. You can apply for an EHIC card online here or from most Post Offices. You need an EHIC in addition to your travel insurance.


European residents (non-UK)
Austrian Alpine Club. Available to all European residents. AAC insurance is cheap and works ok for minor accidents and rescues, but is not as comprehensive as many other insurance providers. The medical cover included would not be enough for complex treatment or a prolonged stay in hospital. It also doesn’t include cancellation cover. If you choose to use AAC we recommend you take out extra medical cover with another provider, to ‘top up’ the AAC medical limit, as well as a separate cancellation policy.


USA residents

Travelex. For US citizens – a range of policies with comprehensive cover.


For any nationality

Global Rescue. Cover offered to all nationalities via a combination of GR membership and their separate insurance policy.


If you choose an alternative provider, or if there is any doubt about the scope of your chosen policy we recommend that you send your insurer the link to the relevant Alpine Guides trip webpage, and ask them if cover extends to those activities and has the required components (search/rescue, medical, repatriation and cancellation). It’s worth mentioning that rescue and medical expenses in Switzerland can be significantly more expensive than in other countries, so a decent level of cover is required for Swiss tours.

We recommend that you send us your insurance details before the trip commences, and they must be brought to the course briefing at the start of your trip. However, we cannot check the detail of every individual policy, and it is your own responsibility to ensure you are adequately insured.

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TBC