Our level 3 Technical Alpine Climbing Course in Chamonix is ideal for established UK rock and ice climbers, or those who have tried classic alpine mountaineering and now want to refine their skills and take on bigger objectives. The aim of the week is to develop your existing climbing skills, focusing on alpine specific techniques for moving efficiently over rock, ice and mixed terrain. A low 2:1 ratio all week gives flexibility to tailor each course to suit ability, aspirations and prevailing mountain conditions. At the end of the week, we aim to climb a 4000m peak via an interesting technical route to put everything into practice! Free climbing equipment rental is included with this course.

Who is this course for?

This course is designed for established climbers who have solid previous Alpine or UK climbing experience on a variety of terrain, who would like to refine and develop their skills for efficient movement on longer alpine routes and more technical terrain.

The course has been planned to include one day looking at each alpine discipline: multi-pitch rock, snow/ice climbing, and classical alpine ridge terrain on rock/snow/mixed terrain.  The week combines a mixture of student lead days, where you are encouraged to work as an independent team with the guide supervising and guide lead days, which allow you to gain experience on longer and more involved alpine climbs.  Important areas such as multi-pitch abseiling, route planning and advanced crevasse rescue are also covered during the week. Typical routes climbed are in the range PD to D depending on conditions and ability, and at the end of the course we aim to climb a classic 4000m peak via an interesting technical route, as a grand finale. This may be in the Chamonix region, the Gran Paradiso National Park in Italy, or in Switzerland depending on conditions, weather, and your preference!

To take part you should be at Tech Level 3 and Fitness Level 3 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines). You need good fitness, and either need to have prior alpine experience, or have climbed at least Scottish II/III in winter and Severe/VS on rock in the UK (or equivalent).  This course makes an ideal follow on to our level 2 Apprenticeship Course and intermediate level alpine climbing holidays.  If you’d like some technical input in the run up to this trip, please get in touch to hire a Uk rock climbing guide.

• Full 6 day program
• Develop your alpine climbing skills
• Gain experience on longer/harder climbs
• Tick off some classics in the Mont Blanc Range!
• Valley accommodation options
• Equipment hire included

Read our choosing an alpine climbing course article for help choosing the right skills course.

Trip Reports >> Report 1

Guiding ratio

One IFMGA guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 6 days of guiding and instruction
• All guides expenses
• With valley accommodation option – 5 nights accommodation in the Chamonix valley, including breakfast and evening meals
• 2 nights accommodation in mountain hut, including breakfast and evening meal
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary
• Equipment hire: 35L backpack, ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness and belay kit

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Travel to resort
• Insurance

Hotels

Our meeting point and Chamonix valley base is Chalet Tissieres in Les Bossons, just 5 mins by car/bus from Chamonix centre. The chalet stands in its own 2000m2 alpine garden with stunning panoramic views of Mont Blanc and the entire Chamonix valley. It offers simple but comfortable shared rooms, a large lounge/dining area, honesty bar, and a huge balcony for al fresco dining on warm summer evenings: a great place to relax after a big day in the mountains. The chalet serves a buffet breakfast and varied 3-course evening meal, with special diets catered for upon request. Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally 4-6 person) sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know and we will confirm availability. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.

This course is also available without valley accommodation – so you can choose your own hotel/gite/camp to suit your budget.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

ABTOT Protected

This trip is protected by ABTOT – Alpine Guides Ltd, Membership Number 5394.  For further information, please visit our Financial Protection page.

Subject to weather and climbing conditions, the plan is as follows. Please note that this is a sample itinerary only – on trips like this, itineraries are always subject to change as the current weather and climbing conditions need to be taken into account.  This is an essential part of safety planning for all mountaineering, so please be ready for changes as part of your trip.

Saturday

You should arrange outward travel on Saturday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment for the week, before we go on to a detailed discussion of everyones aims and goals for the course, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our tailored course planning. We’ll have maps and guidebooks of the area to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. Overnight in the valley.

Sunday

Long Alpine Rock Route

We start the week with a guide-led teaching day on a classic multi-pitch rock climb.  The focus for the day is to warm up, develop an efficient style and learn time saving techniques, on a technical route with an alpine approach and descent.

These core skills are best taught on rock, but apply equally to ice and mixed terrain, so are a good foundation for bigger routes later in the week.  We’ll be looking at topics such as stance management, runners, direct belaying, personal climbing style, and multi-pitch abseiling – covering techniques to save time and energy on longer routes.  A number of these are described in our alpine ninja article elsewhere on the site.  We also introduce taking in coils and moving together in order to make our approach and descent from the climb – these skills are looked at constantly throughout the week, so it’s important to introduce this topic on day 1.

A typical objective for this day is Lepidopteres in the Chamonix Aiguilles, which is accessed from the mid-station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car.  The route has an intricate approach involving moving together on snow and rock, route finding and short pitching.  This leads to an excellent multi-pitch rock climb, which tops out on the famous Papillons Arete.  Finally, the descent involves abseils, moving together, more route finding and a snow slope to reach easy ground.

Covering such a wide variety of alpine terrain requires good ropework, movement skills and efficient changes of technique throughout the day.

Overnight in the  valley.

Monday

Student Lead Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Day – in the Aiguilles Rouges.

The focus of day 2 is to practice and apply the skills learned on day 1, whilst leading a multi-pitch route yourself.

We’ll take either the Brevent or Flegere cable cars out of the valley and head up into the Aiguilles Rouges.  Here, we will choose an appropriate multi-pitch climbing objective, with plenty of varied terrain to cover and a wide variety of techniques required throughout the day.  There are some fantastic routes in this area, and we will choose a varied climb within your leading grade, and without excessive time pressure – so that you can practice, learn and try things out.

Typical objectives for the day are the Clocher Clochetons Traverse or the Aiguille de L’Index, both of which are amongst the 100 finest climbs in the Mont Blanc Range.

Overnight in the valley.

Tuesday

Glacier Travel, Moving on Snow and Crevasse Rescue Training

Student leading and training day focused on moving together on snowy alpine terrain and crevasse rescue training.  The day starts with a drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, in order to use the Helbronner Cable Car on the Italian side of the range to access the Torino Hut.

After dropping off overnight kit at the hut, we rope up and cross the glacier, in order to make a traverse of either La Vierge South Ridge and/or the Flambeau North Ridge. These linked training climbs offer a mixture of scrambling and short pitches on rock, followed by a steepening snowy ridge/face that leads us to the summit.

Skills covered include:

• glacier travel
• moving together on snow
• alpine hazard awareness

From the top, we make a short descent to a large wind scoop, which makes a perfect location for practicing crevasse rescue training:

Crevasse Rescue Training

In the afternoon we do a crevasse rescue training session.  If someone on your rope falls into a crevasse, then get down on the ground immediately and dig your axe and crampons in to hold the fall. If they can’t simply climb out with the aid of a tight rope, then you have three rescue options:

• A Group Haul – this is a safe, simple solution with 3 or more rescuers.
• Self Rescue by Prussicking – the victim prussicks up the rope to escape the crevasse.
• A full blown Crevasse Rescue – only once you’ve exhausted 1 and 2 do you go on to 3!

During this session we will look at how to carry out a simple group hall, before covering advanced crevasse rescue techniques using snow anchors and pulley systems, before heading to the Torino Hut for the night.

Evening Briefing – after a communal evening meal in the hut, our evening briefing looks at using alpine huts, alpine weather forecasts and alpine route planning, alpine rescue, using guidebooks and how to obtain reliable and up to date climbing conditions information. Preparing for the climb on Wednesday.

Wednesday

Alpine Ridge Climbing Day

From the Torino Hut, today’s aim is to traverse one of the excellent peaks near the Torino hut. Objectives include the Aiguille Marbrees or Aiguilles D’Entreves.  Final choice will be determined by the team, weather and conditions, but both are Alpine classics involving a glacier approach and a wide variety of terrain to negotiate – including easier sections where we move together or simu-climb, short trickier pitches and an abseil descent back to the glacier.  The day will be client-led or part client/part guide led depending on the route. Skill areas covered include:

• route finding and navigation
• moving together on rock and mixed terrain
• short pitching and direct belaying
• abseil descending

During the day you will be practicing different ropework and protection techniques and applying them in as many different situations as possible – the guide will be climbing alongside, coaching and supervising and may come into and out of the rope system at different parts of the day.

PM Return to Chamonix. Overnight in valley.

Thursday and Friday

Technical Ice, Mixed or Ridge Route on a 4000m Peak

We aim to climb an interesting technical route on a 4000m peak, with a focus on ice climbing if possible, but if conditions don’t allow an ice route we will focus on a long mixed/ridge climb instead.

Depending on the objectives chosen, Thursday may involve a hut approach day, then a big day on Friday from an early Alpine start. Or if we choose a cable car accessed route – Thursday can be used for a shorter climb before Fridays’ grand finale.

The days will be a mixture of client and guide led, and will take place in Chamonix, Italy or Switzerland depending on weather, conditions and the team. Example itineraries:

Chamonix

Thursday: Cosmiques Arete on the Aiguille du Midi – superb varied AD graded ridge. The best AD in Chamonix!

Friday: Chere Couloir or Left Edge Route and ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Classic ice climbs (Scottish grade 3/4), with a long snow ridge/face to finish on a very scenic 4000m peak.

Italy

Thursday: Travel through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Italy (1 hr 15) and ascend to the Chabod hut.

Friday: The North Face of the Gran Paradiso – AD graded Alpine North face, leading to an elegant snow ridge and the summit of the Paradiso.

Switzerland

If conditions favour an Alpine ridge climb, we may head to the Saas valley in Switzerland, with its superb collection of 4000m peaks.

Thursday: Travel to Saas (approx 2 hours). Ascend via cable car to the Weissmiess hut. Ascent of the Jegihorn via one of the classic ridges or faces – multi-pitch rock from grade V Diff to VS. Overnight in the hut.

Friday: Ascent of the Lagginhorn via South Ridge or WSW Ridge – excellent AD or PD+ routes on a classic 4000m peak. Long scrambling routes, including short pitching and varied rocky ridge terrain with fantastic views over the Mischabel chain.

Fri PM – return to Chamonix, course debrief and advice for the future. Final hotel night in Chamonix.

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation (early departures: if you choose to depart on Friday night, please leave plenty of time for repacking and airport transfer. You will typically be back at the hotel by 5-6pm at the latest, so choose a flight departing after 9-10pm).

We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access. The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley – transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance.

Flight and transfers

• Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
• Airport transfer from Geneva to Chamonix: Mountain Drop-offs offer the best all round service, with regular reliable transfers through the season. They offer a shared minibus taxi service which meets you in the airport and drops you off at the door of your hotel. Book your transfer here and use promo code ALPGUID to receive a discount on your journey. To determine your transfer drop off – please find your hotel details on the trip page.
• Alternatively hire a car at Geneva airport (1.2 hrs drive to Cham): www.arguscarhire.com / www.holidayautos.co.uk

For flights and other travel options, including train, coach and driving, visit our Travel Planning page.

To enjoy this trip you should be comfortable operating at Fitness Level 3, and Tech Level 3 (as appropriate for the style of climbing on this trip ie Alpine, rock climbing or ice climbing).

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 40-50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

To view all climbing Technical and Fitness Levels, and for advice on trip preparation and training, please visit our training advice page.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Wicking thermal top – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Softshell Jacket – mid weight, wind resistant, light insulating layer (or a mid weight fleece jacket)
• Spare warm layer – lightweight synthetic/down jacket or other warm layer
• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock climbing shoes – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Otley offer an excellent walking boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for climbing and mountaineering activities as outlined in the course itinerary. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury. Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Please find further details on our insurance info page.