Our Technical Alpine Climbing Course in Chamonix is ideal for established UK rock and ice climbers, or those who have tried classic alpine mountaineering and now want to refine their skills and take on bigger objectives. The aim of the week is to develop your existing climbing skills, focusing on alpine specific techniques for moving efficiently over rock, ice and mixed terrain. A low 2:1 ratio all week gives flexibility to tailor each course to suit ability, aspirations and prevailing mountain conditions.

We aim to have one day looking at each alpine discipline: multi-pitch rock, snow/ice climbing, and classical alpine ridge terrain on rock/snow/mixed terrain, where students are encouraged to work as an independent team with the guide supervising. Important areas such as multi pitch abseiling, route planning and advanced crevasse rescue are also covered during the week. Typical routes climbed are in the range PD to D depending on conditions and ability.

Recent Trip Reports:

• Video – Teaching on the Chere Couloir
• Tech Alpine July 2017
• Tech Alpine Course
• Tech Alpine with Team Finland
• Tech Alpine Course – Rock , Ice and Mixed
• Technical Alpine Engagement

Need further information? enquire about this trip.

Suitability

This is an intermediate level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 2-3 and Tech Level 3 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines). To get the most out of this course you need to either have prior alpine experience, or have climbed at least Scottish II in winter and Severe on rock in the UK (or equivalent).

Guiding ratio

One UIAGM guide climbing with 2 clients.

Included in price

• 5 days of guiding and instruction
• All guides expenses
• 5 nights accommodation in the Chamonix valley, including breakfast and evening meals**
• 1 nights accommodation in mountain hut, including breakfast and evening meal
• Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

• Cable cars
• Lunches and drinks
• Travel to resort
• Insurance
• Equipment hire

Hotels

Our meeting point and Chamonix valley base is Chalet Tissieres in Les Bossons, just 5 mins by car/bus from Chamonix centre. The chalet stands in its own 2000m2 alpine garden with stunning panoramic views of Mont Blanc and the entire Chamonix valley. It offers simple but comfortable shared rooms, a large lounge/dining area, honesty bar, and a huge balcony for al fresco dining on warm summer evenings: a great place to relax after a big day in the mountains. The chalet serves a buffet breakfast and varied 3-course evening meal**, with special diets catered for upon request. Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally 4-6 person) sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know and we will confirm availability. **The chef has one night off each week – this day will include bed and breakfast only, but the chalet will recommend an alternative local restaurant. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.

Huts

For overnights in the high mountains we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.

(NB ‘Course Only’ Options are also available. If you’d like to book a place on the course only and arrange your own accommodation, then please get in touch).

Sunday

You should arrange outward travel on Sunday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment for the week, before we go on to a detailed discussion of everyones aims and goals for the course, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our tailored course planning. We’ll have maps and guidebooks of the area to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. Overnight in the valley.

Monday

Multipitch Climbing – and mountain skills training in the Aiguilles Rouges.

The focus on day 1 is coaching and improving your existing climbing skills, in order to move more quickly on alpine terrain.

These core skills are best taught on rock, but apply equally to ice and mixed terrain, so are a good foundation for bigger routes later in the week. Typically we start on a multi pitch climb (eg Voie Perroux or Mani Puliti) looking at topics such as stance management, runners, direct belaying and personal climbing style – covering techniques to save time and energy on longer routes.

A number of these are described in our alpine ninja article elsewhere on the site. After lunch we introduce taking in coils and moving together in order to make our descent from the climb – these skills are looked at constantly throughout the week, so it’s important to introduce this topic on day 1.

Multipitch Abseiling

We give you the chance to do some leading if you want to, and finally we complete the day with a multipitch abseil descent in order to learn safe and efficient abbing routines for the rest of the week.

Abseiling is the only practical way down off many alpine routes, so it’s important you know how to abb quickly and safely for long distances – as you may have to do 5, 10 (or 20!) abbs to get off the mountain.   Having a good, slick and safe system for multipitch abbing is essential – as is knowing how to work as a team to save time and look out for each other.

We teach efficient systems for multipitch abbing and how rig anchors and back up in situ ones. Time saving techniques for dealing with short abbs on routes, such as lowering are also covered – as well as tricks for avoiding (or dealing with) common problems like stuck ropes, abbing in strong winds, easy angled ground etc. In short, everything we’ve learned from years of climbing and thousands of abseils in the mountains.

NB if you haven’t used crampons much before, we can tailor the week by swapping Day 1 for an Ecole de Glace day, then cover rock skills on day 2.

Overnight in the  valley.

Tuesday

Long Alpine Rock Route

Putting it all into practice, concentrating on fast and efficient style and time saving techniques etc, on a longer route such as the Miroir D’Argentine or Chapelle de la Gliere.

This is normally a guide led teaching day, in order to get you onto a more involved route – so you can really see what it’s all about. If you’d like to do some leading yourself, we may be able to do this on an objective with less time pressure – eg Lepidopteres in the Chamonix Aiguilles.

Either way, the focus is on climbing a good quality alpine route using skills learned on day one. During the day we cover important elements such as route finding and moving together on both the approach and descent, as well as on the route itself.

Overnight in the  valley.

Wednesday

Alpine Ridge Route and crevasse rescue training.

Day 3 starts with a trip through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur, where we take the cable car up to the Italian side of the range in order to traverse the Aiguille Marbrees.

Firstly, we look at roping up for glacier travel – then whilst approaching the climb we also take time to identify key alpine hazards and discuss how to avoid and minimize the risk they present. At the foot of the route, there’s time for a quick food and drink break before setting off.

The focus is on learning how to move quickly and efficiently on alpine ridge terrain – areas covered include moving together on rock and mixed terrain, moving together on snow, short pitching, direct belaying and descending techniques.

Crevasse Rescue Training

In the afternoon we do a crevasse rescue session, covering skills appropriate to your ability and experience.  If someone on your rope falls into a crevasse, then get down on the ground immediately and dig your axe and crampons in to hold the fall. If they can’t simply climb out with the aid of a tight rope, then you have three rescue options:

• A Group Haul – this is a safe, simple solution with 3 or more rescuers.
• Self Rescue by Prussicking – the victim prussicks up the rope to escape the crevasse.
• A full blown Crevasse Rescue – only once you’ve exhausted 1 and 2 do you go on to 3!

For those with experience building snow belays, we may also cover advanced crevasse rescue skills before heading to the Cosmiques or Torino Huts for the night.

Evening Briefing – after a communal evening meal in the hut, our evening briefing looks at using alpine huts, alpine weather forecasts and alpine route planning – preparing for Thursday’s climb.

Thursday

Alpine Ice Climbing Day

On day 4 the plan is to climb an ice or mixed face route such as the Chere Couloir or Tacul N Face. The focus for the day being ice and mixed climbing in an alpine environment.

We look at key skills related to ice climbing, including ice belays, ice protection and where appropriate, simu climbing. Normally this is a guide leading day, due to the length and serious of the routes. However if you would prefer to practice some leading on ice and mixed ground yourself, then this could be possible in good conditions on a shorter, less serious climb such at the Petit Aig Verte North Face.

If conditions aren’t suitable for ice climbing, then we will climb a mixed ridge route, or a bigger alpine climb to a major summit such as the Tour Ronde. We are as flexible as possible with our itineraries, in order make best use of conditions – so regularly swap days around in order to get an ice climb done whenever possible.

Overnight in the valley.

Friday

Client Led Day

The final day of the course is left more open, being lead by your interests and aspirations. As a team we discuss the weather, current climbing conditions and different options for the day – then come out with a plan.

The idea is to round off the week on a high and to get you thinking and planning more independently for the future, by climbing a technically interesting route with a variety of challenges to deal with. You may decide to take the lead on a route such as the Cosmiques Arete, or push yourself on a harder climb with the guide leading.

Whatever route we climb, the focus is on smooth and efficient climbing style, moving quickly and safely, judging conditions and changing between different techniques as the terrain changes under foot.

Fri PM – course debrief and advice for the future.

Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation (early departures: if you choose to depart on Friday night, please leave plenty of time for repacking and airport transfer. You will typically be back at the hotel by 4-5pm at the latest, so choose a flight departing after 9-10pm).

We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access.

Arrival

The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley – transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance.

Flight and transfers

• Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
• Airport transfer from Geneva to Chamonix: Mountain Drop-offs offer the best all round service, with regular reliable transfers through the season. They offer a shared minibus taxi service which meets you in the airport and drops you off at the door of your hotel. Book your transfer here and use promo code ALPGUID to receive a discount on your journey.
• Alternatively hire a car at Geneva airport (1.2 hrs drive to Cham): www.arguscarhire.com / www.holidayautos.co.uk

Other travel options

• Driving from UK, take the ferry or Eurotunnel to Calais/Dunkerque, then 9-10 hours driving on the French Autoroutes (budget approx 80 Euros each way in tolls).
• Euroline coach UK to Chamonix (takes 1 day): www.eurolines.co.uk/en
• Eurostar train from the UK to Lyon, then onward train service to Chamonix (excellent fast service): www.eurostar.com/uk-en

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.

Alpine Mountaineering is an endurance sport – ie to get to the summit involves climbing uphill for several hours.  Therefore, your fitness and power to weight ratio are very important factors for success.  Another important factor is altitude, which people react to in different ways and finally, you need the appropriate technical climbing ability for the trip – please check that you have the correct fitness and tech levels for your trip using the Tech Level and Fitness Level descriptions below.

Physical fitness
This is a key factor – you must be at the minimum Fitness Level quoted for your course (see descriptions below). However, the fitter you are the more you will enjoy it and the greater your chances of success. Being fit also helps you to recover more quickly between climbs during the week.

Your power to weight ratio
What shape you are has a big impact on your likelihood of success! Eg are you slim and athletic, a normal build, a bit overweight, or 1-2 stone or more overweight? If you are considerably overweight, your chances of making it to the summit are not good, even with reasonable fitness (although the two don’t usually go together), good weather and perfect conditions.  If you are carrying some excess weight, then you need to lose as much as possible before joining the trip.

Your personal acclimatization rate
All of our alpine trips involve an acclimatization climb at the start of the week, but everyone responds to altitude in different ways and personal speeds of acclimatization vary widely between individuals. Past experience is a fair indicator – so if you have coped Ok at altitude before eg. on a previous alpine trip, Kilimanjaro, or on a high altitude trek, then this should be good news. Conversely, if you have had problems or been slow to acclimatize before, then you definitely need to come out early, in order to pre acclimatize before the week starts – please contact us for further advice about this.

Training

If you need to top up your fitness for this trip, please see our training advice page.

Tech Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip suitability requirements.

Tech Level 1
Hillwalker/scrambler. You have UK hillwalking and perhaps summer UK scrambling, or European via ferrata experience – but no rock or ice climbing, or previous alpine mountaineering experience.

Tech level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

Tech Level 5
Very experienced climber. Regularly lead multipitch E1+ trad rock / ice and mixed routes at Scottish 5+ or WI5 /  alpine routes at grade D and above. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have very extensive experience climbing at this level.

Fitness Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip requirements. These are cardiovascular (CV) fitness and activity levels eg. running, cycling, hillwalking or competitive sports that get your heart and lungs working for extended periods of time (not strength training in the gym!).

Fitness Level 1
You do 1-2 hours of training/cardiovascular sport per week. Eg: you should be able to climb Snowdon from Pen y Pas in around 2 hrs carrying a day sack, or Bow Fell starting from Langdale in the Lake District in about 2 1/2 hrs.

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Fitness Level 5
You do 5-6+ hours training for competitive sport per week, have a background in the same, or you are annoyingly talented! Either way, doing a 100 ml bike ride or about a 3hr marathon wouldn’t be unreasonable.

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

• Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
• Overtrousers – with long side zips
• Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
• Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
• Wicking thermal tops – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
• Fleece mid layer – or equivalent light insulating layer
• Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
• Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
• Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
• Warm hat – must fit under a helmet
• Spare warm layer – fleece or lightweight synthetic belay jacket

Personal Items

• Water Container – at least 1 litre
• Headtorch and batteries
• Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
• Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
• Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
• Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
• Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
• Sun hat
• Shorts
• Wallet and passport
• Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

• Small wash kit
• Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
• Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
• Ear plugs
• (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

• Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
• Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
• *Rigid mountaineering boots – Axe, Boot and Crampon advice
• Rock boots – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
• Approach shoes or trainers
• Trekking poles
• Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
• 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
• 120cm sling + locking karabiner
• Climbing helmet
• Crampons with antiball plates
• Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
• Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.

Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Ilkley offer an excellent mountain boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for the following activities: rock climbing and mountaineering in glaciated areas requiring the use of ropes, up to 5000m altitude. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury.

Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.

Insurance for UK residents

British Mountaineering Council. The gold standard in insurance for UK residents. Very competitive single trip or annual cover for all climbing activities. Use this link to book your BMC insurance.

European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This gives you reciprocal health care in European countries. You can apply for an EHIC card online here or from most Post Offices. You need an EHIC in addition to your travel insurance.

European residents (non-UK)
Austrian Alpine Club. Available to all European residents. AAC insurance is cheap and works ok for minor accidents and rescues, but is not as comprehensive as many other insurance providers. The medical cover included would not be enough for complex treatment or a prolonged stay in hospital. It also doesn’t include cancellation cover. If you choose to use AAC we recommend you take out extra medical cover with another provider, to ‘top up’ the AAC medical limit, as well as a separate cancellation policy.

USA residents

Travelex. For US citizens – a range of policies with comprehensive cover.

For any nationality

Global Rescue. Cover offered to all nationalities via a combination of GR membership and their separate insurance policy.

If you choose an alternative provider, or if there is any doubt about the scope of your chosen policy we recommend that you send your insurer the link to the relevant Alpine Guides trip webpage, and ask them if cover extends to those activities and has the required components (search/rescue, medical, repatriation and cancellation). It’s worth mentioning that rescue and medical expenses in Switzerland can be significantly more expensive than in other countries, so a decent level of cover is required for Swiss tours.

We recommend that you send us your insurance details before the trip commences, and they must be brought to the course briefing at the start of your trip. However, we cannot check the detail of every individual policy, and it is your own responsibility to ensure you are adequately insured.