4000m Peaks Climbing Course

Fitness level
Tech level
Number of guiding days
5
Guiding ratio
1:3

Learn how to climb independently in the Alps and tackle your first 4000m peak. Our 4000m Peaks Climbing Course is based in Chamonix and covers the same essential skills as our alpine intro course, but with a particular focus on climbing 4000m peaks. Climbing at a low 3:1 ratio all week allows us to tackle more technical terrain and further refine your skills for independent mountaineering in the future.

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£1350

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What an amazing week! Jonny was a brilliant Guide and I can’t thank him enough for his calm and simple approach to each day. We look forward to seeing him again! Karen was also lovely. I have learnt so much and Jeremy and I are already thinking ahead and getting some ideas together for our next summit! Chamonix is a fab location and we will certainly be going back to do more climbing. We also loved the chalet as it was a great combination of scrummy food and location so a top recommendation.

Samantha Toner

We had a great week – thoroughly enjoyable. Summiting Gran Paradiso brought Sam to tears (happy ones) and the day was awesome – some of the best underfoot conditions imaginable and blue skies too…! Chalet Tissieres is lovely – would struggle to find a more perfect place and setup to use as a base for a mountaineering / climbing trip.

Jeremy Rowley

Please would you be kind enough to pass on my thanks to Dave for a thoroughly enjoyable and constructive trip. Dave was fantastic, and I would have no hesitation in recommending him and your course to others with similar interests in future.

James Forth

Just a note to say thanks for all your help and advice leading up to the trip. It was a great success and Al was all I’d imagined he’d be. It was great fun but the teaching was very professional. We covered loads of stuff and he was ready with back-up plans when we needed them. I feel that independent alpine trips are now nearer my reach but I think that a guided ascent of Mont Blanc will probably be next. Speak soon and have a great season.

Paul Meyerscough

The trip was awesome. The 4000m course was fantastic, learned loads and would definitely be comfortable taking on some PD climbs in the future. Chalet Tissieres was excellent lovely and clean and excellent food to be fair. The huts were grand and as I expected: good food on show as well, though Italian and French hut breakfasts are an acquired taste!!! I will definitely be back next year. Thanks again Rich for making both of my trips possible.

Tomas Shinnick

The trip was fantastic, it exceeded all of my expectations. The organisation was brilliant. Al was an excellent guide. Not only knowledgeable, but someone to enjoy a meal and a chat with. I would unquestionably recommend Al and Alpine Guides and I look forward to joining you on another trip.

Chris Briggs

Just wanted to say thank you so much for organising such a brilliant course for us last week. We both had a great time, got a lot out of it and Dave was a great guide. Thanks again Rich, I’ll hopefully be in contact soon regarding next summers adventure!

Laura Newnham

The accomodation, the organisation, Al’s guiding and the route choices were all top notch and I felt like the week led-up well to the Gran Paradiso. I came away feeling proficient in the ropework etc, mainly as Al encouraged us to do it ourselves where possible once we’d learned the initial skill, which is the way I learn best.

Ryan Annett

Everything with Alpine guides was fantastic..truly! Al was superb and it was really a privilege to have been with for a week…learned loads. I’ve so much more to learn (the now conscious incompetent!!)…but ive so enjoyed it. The Chalet is great…what a view! And the staff and food were brill. All in all it was super and don’t be surprised if you have me bothering you again next year!!.. and I really appreciated how personal you guys make things.

Jo Treacy

Wanted to thank you for a fantastic week – Lori was superb and feel like I really learned an enormous amount (and had a lot of fun into the bargain). Was really a pleasure to climb with him. All the accommodation and planning ran smoothly. Will definitely be looking to do some more climbing with you soon.

George Davie

Trip overview

Learn how to climb independently in the Alps and tackle your first 4000m peak. Our 4000m Peaks Climbing Course is based in Chamonix and covers the same essential skills as our alpine intro course, but with a particular focus on climbing 4000m peaks. Climbing at a low 3:1 ratio all week allows us to tackle more technical terrain and further refine your skills for independent mountaineering in the future.

Important areas covered include snow and ice skills, glacier travel, moving together, crevasse rescue, route choice and planning, navigation, weather and hazard evaluation.

Recent Trip Reports:

Need further information? Enquire about this trip


Suitability

This is an introductory level trip. To take part you should be at Fitness Level 2 and Tech Level 1-2 (see our Fitness/Experience guidelines). You need good general fitness and experience in UK mountains (summer or winter). Some scrambling or rock climbing experience is also desirable if you want to progress onto more technical terrain.


Guiding ratio

One UIAGM guide climbing with 3 clients.


Included in price

  • 5 days of guiding/instruction
  • All guides expenses
  • 4 nights accommodation in the Chamonix valley, including breakfast and evening meal**
  • 2 nights accommodation in mountain huts, including breakfast and evening meal
  • Local travel in the guide’s vehicle to complete the course itinerary

Excluded from price (see course factsheet for cost estimates)

  • Cable cars
  • Lunches and drinks
  • Travel to resort
  • Insurance
  • Equipment hire

Hotels

Our meeting point and Chamonix valley base is Chalet Tissieres in Les Bossons, just 5 mins by car/bus from Chamonix centre. The chalet stands in its own 2000m2 alpine garden with stunning panoramic views of Mont Blanc and the entire Chamonix valley. It offers simple but comfortable shared rooms, a large lounge/dining area, honesty bar, and a huge balcony for al fresco dining on warm summer evenings: a great place to relax after a big day in the mountains. The chalet serves a buffet breakfast and varied 3-course evening meal**, with special diets catered for upon request. Rooms are provided on a twin (or occasionally 4-6 person) sharing basis, but if you prefer a single room please let us know and we will confirm availability. **The chef has one night off each week – this day will include bed and breakfast only, but the chalet will recommend an alternative local restaurant. Hotel details can be found on our Accommodation page.


Huts

For overnights in the high mountains, we will use mountain huts. For more info please read the Using Alpine Huts article which provides an overview of typical facilities, average costs to help you budget for lunches/drinks, and general info on hut etiquette.


(NB ‘Course Only’ Options are also available. If you’d like to book a place on the course only and arrange your own accommodation, then please get in touch).

Detailed Itinerary

Sunday

You should arrange outward travel on Sunday, arriving by 5-6pm latest in time for the briefing at your accommodation. Your guide will run through safety routines and kit checks, as well as hand out any rental equipment for the week, before we go on to discuss everyones aims and ambitions for the course, together with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these affect our course planning.

We’ll have maps and guidebooks of the area to show you, so if you’ve any further questions or last minute requests, then this is the ideal time to bring them up before we head on to dinner. PM Overnight in the valley.


Monday

alpinfo-ecoledeglaceEcole de Glace – glacier training day

Essential snow and ice training, including crampon and ice axe skills and glacier travel – taught on the Mer de Glace above Chamonix.

These essential snow and ice skills are best learned on the lower reaches of a glacier. To begin with we do a lot of movement coaching – teaching you how to use your crampons and ice axe to best effect and improving both footwork and co-ordination skills. We then look at roping up for glacier travel, practicing knots and ropework to safely negotiate crevasses and other hazards.

For the final part of the day we look at other ice techniques of the interest to the group – examples include steeper ice climbing with 2 tools, building ice belays, prussicking out of a crevasse, abolakov threads etc.

Overnight in the valley.


Tuesday

essentials-flambeauPetit Flambeau North Ridge – and crevasse rescue training

Skills training focussing on moving together on snow and crevasse rescue training.  The day starts with a drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, in order to use the Hellbronner Cable Car on the Italian side of the range to reach the Torino Hut. From here, we climb the Petit Flambeau North Ridge.

Skills covered include:

  • moving together on snow
  • glacier travel
  • alpine hazard awareness

essentials-crevasseCrevasse Rescue Training

In the afternoon we do a crevasse rescue session, covering skills appropriate to your ability and experience.

If someone on your rope falls into a crevasse, then get down on the ground immediately and dig your axe and crampons in to hold the fall. If they can’t simply climb out with the aid of a tight rope, then you have three rescue options:

  • A Group Haul – this is a safe, simple solution with 3 or more rescuers.
  • Self Rescue by Prussicking – the victim prussicks up the rope to escape the crevasse.
  • A full blown Crevasse Rescue – 0nly once you’ve exhausted 1 and 2 do you go on to 3!

For those with experience building snow belays, we may also cover advanced crevasse rescue skills before heading to the Torino Hut for the night. After a communal evening meal in the hut, our evening briefing looks at using alpine huts, alpine weather forecasts and alpine route planning – preparing for the climb on Wednesday.

Overnight at the Torino Hut.


Wednesday

traversing the aiguille marbreesTraverse of Aiguilles Marbrees

From the Torino Hut – skill areas covered include:

  • route finding and navigation
  • moving together on rock and mixed terrain
  • short pitching and direct belaying

During coaching and training sessions, you will be practicing different ropework and protection techniques and applying them in as many different situations as possible – in order to develop sound judgement and decision making skills in real alpine terrain. If you have rock leading experience, then we’ll also look at short pitching and direct belaying techniques during the day.

PM Return to Chamonix. Overnight in valley.


Thursday

alp4000s-prussikingSkills and Hut Approach

In the morning we head to a valley crag to do some prussicking (an important skill for getting yourself out of a crevasse) and look at various useful skills related to rock climbing, belaying and abseiling:

  • prussicking, rock climbing, belaying etc.

In the afternoon we then drive across to the Gran Paradiso National Park in Italy and walk up to the Vittorio Emanuele Hut for the night.

Evening briefing – planning for the ascent of the Gran Paradiso, including a short talk on alpine rescue, using guidebooks and how to obtain reliable and up to date climbing conditions information.


Friday

mb-paradiso-towersAscent of Gran Paradiso – via the classic west flank route.

After a pre dawn ‘alpine start’, the route followed depends on conditions – when it’s snowy the glacier route is quickest, but in drier conditions the rock ridge is a better choice. At 3700m, both routes converge, then follow the same line up the glacier to the final summit rocks. Here, a 100m of trickier scrambling lead to the highest point, with geat views and a welcome rest before the long descent.

Alternative 4000m Summits – if weather or conditions prevent us from making an ascent of the Gran Paradiso, then we’ll attempt one of the following other 4000m peaks instead: Weissmies, Allalinhorn, Breithorn, Lagginhorn, MB de Tacul, Alphubel, Pyramide Vincente.

Descend to the valley in the evening and drive back to Chamonix – course debrief and advice for the future.


Saturday

Return travel should be arranged on Saturday morning, after your final nights accommodation.

Early departures – if you choose to depart on Friday night, please leave plenty of time for repacking and airport transfer. You will typically be back at the hotel by 4-5pm at the latest, so choose a flight departing Geneva after 9-10pm.

Location and Travel

We base ourselves for the week in the famous French resort of Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the most famous Alpine centres in the world, with an unparalleled range of quality climbing across all grades and styles, and much of it with convenient cablecar access.


Arrival

The most common way to reach Chamonix is fly to Geneva, then take a shared taxi transfer to the Chamonix valley – transfers will drop off at the destination of your choice, but must be booked in advance.


Flight and transfers

  • Fly to Geneva with numerous budget airlines: for an overview of the best options check out the excellent Sky Scanner flight comparison website.
  • Airport transfer from Geneva to Chamonix: Mountain Drop-offs offer the best all round service, with regular reliable transfers through the season. They offer a shared minibus taxi service which meets you in the airport and drops you off at the door of your hotel. Book your transfer here and use promo code ALPGUID to receive a discount on your journey.
  • Alternatively hire a car at Geneva airport (1.2 hrs drive to Cham): www.arguscarhire.com / www.holidayautos.co.uk

Other travel options

  • Driving from UK, take the ferry or Eurotunnel to Calais/Dunkerque, then 9-10 hours driving on the French Autoroutes (budget approx 80 Euros each way in tolls).
  • Euroline coach UK to Chamonix (takes 1 day): www.eurolines.co.uk/en
  • Eurostar train from the UK to Lyon, then onward train service to Chamonix (excellent fast service): www.eurostar.com/uk-en

Further information and travel links can be found on our Travel Planning page.

Fitness and Experience

Alpine Mountaineering is a strenuous endurance sport – ie to get to the summit involves slogging up hill for hours on end!  Therefore, your fitness and power to weight ratio are very important factors for success.  Another important factor is altitude, which people react to in different ways and finally, you need the appropriate technical climbing ability for the trip – please check that you have the correct fitness and tech levels for your trip using the Tech Level and Fitness Level descriptions below.

Physical fitness
This is a key factor – you must be at the minimum Fitness Level quoted for your course (see descriptions below). However, the fitter you are the more you will enjoy it and the greater your chances of success. Being fit also helps you to recover more quickly between climbs during the week.

Your power to weight ratio
What shape you are has a big impact on your likelihood of success! Eg are you slim and athletic, a normal build, a bit overweight, or 1-2 stone or more overweight? If you are considerably overweight, your chances of making it to the summit are not high, even with reasonable fitness (although the two don’t usually go together), good weather and perfect conditions.  If you are carrying any excess weight, then you need to lose as much of this as possible before joining the trip.

Your personal acclimatization rate
All of our alpine trips involve an acclimatization climb at the start of the week, but everyone responds to altitude in different ways and personal speeds of acclimatization vary widely between individuals. Past experience is a fair indicator – so if you have coped Ok at altitude before eg. on a previous alpine trip, Kilimanjaro, or on a high altitude trek, then this should be good news. Conversely, if you have had problems or been slow to acclimatize before, then you definitely need to come out early, in order to pre acclimatize before the week starts – please contact us for further advice about this.

Training

If you need to top up your fitness for this trip, please see our training advice page.


Tech Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip suitability requirements.

Tech Level 1
Hillwalker/scrambler. You have UK hillwalking and perhaps summer UK scrambling, or European via ferrata experience – but no rock or ice climbing, or previous alpine mountaineering experience.

Tech level 2
Novice climber. Indoor or outdoor sport climbing experience / seconding traditionally protected climbs at V Diff – Severe standard / winter hillwalking or mountaineering using an ice axe and crampons / alpine glacier treks or alpine peaks to F standard.

Tech Level 3
Intermediate climber. Leading single or multi pitch trad rock climbs at Severe – VS / ice climbing experience seconding routes to Scottish grade 2 – 3 / familiar with multipitch abseil descents / alpine peaks at PD – easy AD standard.

Tech Level 4
Experienced climber. Leading multi pitch trad rock climbs at VS – HVS / multi pitch winter climbs to Scottish grade 4 / alpine peaks at AD – D standard. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have extensive experience seconding at this standard.

Tech Level 5
Very experienced climber. Regularly lead multipitch E1+ trad rock / ice and mixed routes at Scottish 5+ or WI5 /  alpine routes at grade D and above. If you mainly climb with guides or seldom lead climb, you have very extensive experience climbing at this level.


Fitness Levels

Please make a self assessment against these levels, and refer to the trip requirements. These are cardiovascular (CV) fitness and activity levels eg. running, cycling, hillwalking or competitive sports that get your heart and lungs working for extended periods of time (not strength training in the gym!).

Fitness Level 1
You do 1-2 hours of training/cardiovascular sport per week. Eg: you should be able to climb Snowdon from Pen y Pas in around 2 hrs carrying a day sack, or Bow Fell starting from Langdale in the Lake District in about 2 1/2 hrs.

Fitness Level 2
You do 2-3 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you should be happy doing either a 3-4 hour hillwalk, cycling 30 miles or mountain biking 2-3 hours without being exhausted. Eg: you should be able to walk from Ogwen Cottage in North Wales up Glyder Fach – Glyder Fawr – Y Garn – Ogwen in ~5hrs. Or in the Lake District Langdale – Bowfell – Esk Pike – Angle Tarn – Langdale in ~ 6hrs.

Fitness Level 3
You do 3-4 hours CV training/sport per week. At this level you are happy doing a 5-6 hour hillwalk, 50 mile cycle or 3-4hr mountain bike ride without being totally exhausted. If you are into challenges – then the thought of doing a road sportive, or training to do a 1/2 (or maybe even a full) marathon, wouldn’t seem too ridiculous. Eg: you should be able to do the full Langdale Horseshoe: Langdale – Pike of Stickle – Angle Tarn – Bow Fell – Crinkle Crags – Pike of Blisco – Langdale in a day without finishing up exhausted.

Fitness Level 4
You do 4+ hours CV training/sport per week. A 70+ mile cycle ride, or 20+ mile hillwalk on a weekend would hold no fears. If so inclined, you might be the kind of person who has done longer road sportives/challenge rides, a ~3.30hr marathon or other similar endurance events. Keen hillwalkers who happily knock off 3-4+ munros in a day also have this kind of fitness and endurance.

Fitness Level 5
You do 5-6+ hours training for competitive sport per week, have a background in the same, or you are annoyingly talented! Either way, doing a 100 ml bike ride or about a 3hr marathon wouldn’t be unreasonable.

Equipment

Summer Alpine Kit List

Above all, alpine climbing kit needs to do the job, but be as light as possible. We work with various manufacturers including Arc’teryx, whose products we can thoroughly recommend.

Technical Clothing

  • Waterproof jacket – lightweight breathable model
  • Overtrousers – with long side zips
  • Socks – warm ‘Smartwool’ type, plus thin liner socks and spares
  • Gaiters – made from breathable material (or trim fitting trousers with ankle volume adjuster)
  • Wicking thermal tops – long sleeved and light colour is ideal!
  • Fleece mid layer – or equivalent light insulating layer
  • Mountain trousers – light/mid-weight windproof softshell model
  • Thin gloves – windproof ‘hardfleece’ model is good
  • Warm insulated gloves – wind and waterproof
  • Warm hat – must fit under a helmet
  • Spare warm layer – fleece or lightweight synthetic belay jacket

Personal Items

  • Water Container – at least 1 litre
  • Headtorch and batteries
  • Map, compass and whistle (optional, but a good idea)
  • Personal medications and blister kit – zinc oxide tape, compeed, painkillers etc
  • Sun Glasses – CE rated 3 or 4 with side protection
  • Goggles – for windy/snowy conditions
  • Sun and lip cream – factor 30+
  • Sun hat
  • Shorts
  • Wallet and passport
  • Alpine Club/BMC card (if you are a member) and insurance docs

Hut Overnight Items

  • Small wash kit
  • Spare lightweight t-shirt/socks/pants
  • Silk sheet sleeping bag liner
  • Ear plugs
  • (Hut slippers for indoor use, and blankets/duvets and pillows are provided by the huts)

Technical Equipment

  • Rucsac – 35/45l is perfect for general use
  • Rucsac – superlight 15/20l model, for taking on long multi-pitch rock routes (for technical courses/private guiding)
  • *Rigid mountaineering bootsAxe, Boot and Crampon advice
  • Rock boots – must be comfortable enough to wear for several hours (can be hired in resort if nec)
  • Approach shoes or trainers
  • Trekking poles
  • Harness, locking karabiner and belay device
  • 2 prussik loops + karabiner – if in doubt, bring 3m of 6mm climbing cord!
  • 120cm sling + locking karabiner
  • Climbing helmet
  • Crampons with antiball plates
  • Ice Axe classic type for intro and general mountaineering courses
  • Technical Ice Axe and Hammer – required for parts of the Tech Alpine/Cham Alpinist/Ice and Mixed/North Faces courses

Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment.

*Boots: These are VERY important to the success of your trip! Its best to have your own boots and break them in well before the start of the trip – see advice below.


Recommendations and Advice
Visit the Knowledge Base section of our website or our blog for equipment advice. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, please get in touch!

Purchasing Equipment
Backcountry UK in Ilkley offer an excellent mountain boot fitting service and general equipment advice.

Hiring Equipment
Please see our Equipment Hire page for more details.


Insurance

For this trip you must have specialist travel insurance providing medical, emergency search/rescue and repatriation cover for the following activities: rock climbing and mountaineering in glaciated areas requiring the use of ropes, up to 5000m altitude. We also strongly recommend that you purchase cancellation cover, in case you’re unable to attend your trip due to personal circumstances or injury.

Please arrange your insurance as soon as your trip is confirmed to run.


Insurance for UK residents

British Mountaineering Council. The gold standard in insurance for UK residents. Very competitive single trip or annual cover for all climbing activities. Use this link to book your BMC insurance.

European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This gives you reciprocal health care in European countries. You can apply for an EHIC card online here or from most Post Offices. You need an EHIC in addition to your travel insurance.


European residents (non-UK)
Austrian Alpine Club. Available to all European residents. AAC insurance is cheap and works ok for minor accidents and rescues, but is not as comprehensive as many other insurance providers. The medical cover included would not be enough for complex treatment or a prolonged stay in hospital. It also doesn’t include cancellation cover. If you choose to use AAC we recommend you take out extra medical cover with another provider, to ‘top up’ the AAC medical limit, as well as a separate cancellation policy.


USA residents

Travelex. For US citizens – a range of policies with comprehensive cover.


For any nationality

Global Rescue. Cover offered to all nationalities via a combination of GR membership and their separate insurance policy.


If you choose an alternative provider, or if there is any doubt about the scope of your chosen policy we recommend that you send your insurer the link to the relevant Alpine Guides trip webpage, and ask them if cover extends to those activities and has the required components (search/rescue, medical, repatriation and cancellation). It’s worth mentioning that rescue and medical expenses in Switzerland can be significantly more expensive than in other countries, so a decent level of cover is required for Swiss tours.

We recommend that you send us your insurance details before the trip commences, and they must be brought to the course briefing at the start of your trip. However, we cannot check the detail of every individual policy, and it is your own responsibility to ensure you are adequately insured.

Book Now

£1350