Taschhorn – 4491m -AD , 1650m , 14-16hrs
The Taschhorn is an imposing and difficult peak, both remote of access and serious to climb.
The Climbs – Both long, serious routes with steep and exposed climbing whilst moving together. Conditions need to be good to make an ascent.
Experience – Good quality alpine climbing experience on bigger AD 4000m peaks. Fitness and good acclimatisation essential.
Guiding – if you are interested in climbing the Taschhorn with a guide, check our 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.
There are two principle routes to the summit – the SSE Ridge (known as the Mischabelgrat) and the NW Face (known as the Kin Face). Both routes are very conditions specific and have long approaches.
The Mischabelgrat is best climbed from the Mischabeljoch bivouac hut, which is most easily reached by traversing Alphubel first. The climb itself is a long broken ridge crest, covered in numerous cornices, followed by a steeper buttress to the summit.
When in condition, the Kin Face is the easiest way to the summit of the Taschhorn, but still very remote and serious. Climbed from either the Dom hut or Kin hut, the climb is up a steep and complex glacier face with a sharp ridge to finish.
Any descent from the Tachhorn is a long way!