Piz Bernina, Biancograt – AD , 1450m , 8-10hrs
The North Ridge of Piz Bernina – better known as the Biancograt – is the most elegant snow arete in the Alps. Long and commiting, the route also has some tricky rock pitches to start and finish.
The Climb – A long alpine snow arete, with rock sections at either end.
Experience – Previous alpine climbing experience on bigger AD 4000m peaks. Fitness and good crampon skills essential.
Guiding – If you are interested in climbing the Biancograt with a guide, check out or 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.
tarting from the Tschierva hut, a long approach in the dark leads to a section of via ferrata that gains access to the route. The first rock towers are then climbed and turned on the left, in order to reach the snow arete.
This is climbed all the way up to the final rock towers, which must be traversed in order to reach the summit. It’s then just a relatively short descent to the Marco e Rosa hut, where a fine selection of mountain photographs enliven the walls…