Ober Gabelhorn – 4063m

Ober Gabelhorn – 4063m – AD , 900m , 11-12hrs

The Ober Gabelhorn is an elegant peak with great quality climbing. The normal line of ascent is the ENE Ridge via the Wellenkuppe, with exposed climbing on a narrow crest. The Arbengrat is equally good and makes for a great traverse. If you are lucky, the North Face also provides a wonderful outing.

The Climbs – Technical alpine ridge climbs. Both are long and commiting routes with some tricky rock climbing and/or exposed sections whilst moving together.

Experience – Previous alpine climbing experience on bigger AD 4000m peaks.

Guiding – if you are interested in climbing the Ober Gabelhorn with a guide, check out our 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.

Starting from the Rothorn hut, the Wellenkuppe is first climbed, before descending a short distance and traversing over the grand gendarme with the aid of some fixed ropes. A section of narrow snow ridge then follows, before the final rocky buttres leads to the summit.

To do the traverse, it’s necessary to first spend a night at the Arben bivouac hut, before going up the Arben Grat and descending down to the Rothorn hut. This makes for a brilliant adventure.