Tacul North Face – AD-D , 350m , 3-5 hrs
The North Face Triangle on Mont Blanc de Tacul offers a great selection of reliable ice and mixed routes in the middle grades.
The Climb – An alpine ice and mixed face. It’s normal to crampon up the rib above in order to exit the face.
Experience – Previous scottish, alpine or ice climbing experience required. Technical climbing up to Scottish grade III.
Over 20 lines have been recorded on the face, but classics such as Left Edge Route and the Contamine-Mazeaud are often in condition during the summer, as well as at other times of year.
The climbing is typical for an alpine north face – ie plenty of ambiance, a mixture of ice and mixed pitches, plus some moving together on easier sections if conditions are good.
From the top of the triangle, in order to to exit the face it’s necessary to crampon up the rounded shoulder above to the top of the north flank – either taking in the summit, or cutting across to the normal route which is the best line of descent.