Les Droites – 4000m, South Ridge

Les Droites, South Ridge – AD , 1300m , 8-10hrs

The Droites is a serious peak from all sides. Home to one of the most famous North Faces in the Alps, the standard SE Spur route is not to be undertaken lightly.

The Climb – A serious route with a couloir, mixed scrambling and a snow arete near to the top. Conditions need to be good to make an ascent and speed is important.

Experience – Good quality alpine climbing experience on bigger AD 4000m peaks, efficient abseiling ability for the descent. Fitness essential.

Guiding – If you are interested in climbing the Droites with a guide, check out our 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.

The route must be approached in the dark and the lower couloir climbed as early as possible, as the whole of the route is south facing.

The line above the couloir weaves through interesting mixed ground, trending rightwards to outflank a rock buttress, before reaching a snow crest that leads to the final summit rocks.

From the top, the route can either be descended the same way, or a traverse made by down climbing and abseiling the SE Couloir to reach steep open snow slopes below the Col des Droites.