Eiger, South Ridge

Eiger, South Ridge – AD , 500m , 8-10hrs

The South Ridge of the Eiger is a long and superb outing, involving exposed ridge climbing on both snow and rock, with mixed action too in snowy conditions.

The Climb – A long, serious route with narrow snow ridge traversing and some rock climbing. The difficulties have to be crossed in both directions.

Experience – Previous alpine AD climbing experience essential, good scrambling and cramponing ability, as well as ability to climb V Diff rock easily in big boots with a rucsac on. In snowy conditions there may be Scottish III mixed climbing.

Guiding – if you are interested climbing the Eiger with a guide, check our Climb the Eiger week, or our 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.

It can be climbed in both dry and snowier conditions, so long as the cornices aren’t too big. Leaving the hut before dawn, a hike across the glacier leads to the south Eigerjoch, where the climbing starts.

A narrow 1km whale back ridge seperates this point from the North Eigerjoch – one of the major obstacles on the route, this ridge has to be traversed in both directions. Snowy at first, it becomes more and more mixed, then finally rocky.

A short abseil leads to the North Eigerjoch, where the final ascent of the South Ridge begins. Depending on conditions, this can be either rock or mixed climbing, followed by snow up to the summit.

The descent involves reversing the whole route, abseiling some of the difficulties and climbing others, till the south Eigerjoch and finally the Monchjoch Hut are reached.