Chere Couloir – D- , 300m , 4-5 hrs
One of the best known ice routes in the range, the Chere Couloir is a modern classic that is frequently in condition. Short, steep and technically interesting, with a quick abseil descent.
The Climb – A short, steep alpine ice couloir. It’s normal to abseil the route from the top of the difficulties (risk of stonefall for parties below if you continue up the gully).
Experience – Previous alpine or ice climbing experience required. 3-4 pitches of steeper climbing using 2 tools.
Guiding – if you are interested in climbing the Chere Couloir with a guide, check out our Chamonix Alpine Climbing holidays.
Tucked in on the right side of the Tacul Triangle, the Chere Couloir receives very little sun, so it’s often in condition after fresh snowfall or when temperatures drop, even in high summer.
The first couple of pitches are relatively easy angled and with good conditions it’s sometimes possible to move together on this section. Above however, the coulor rapidly steepens to give four or so pitches of technical ice climbing, with the steepest bit at around 80 degrees for a few metres.
At the top of the difficult climbing, a quick abseil descent can be made down the line of the route (this is preferable to continuing up the gully, as there’s loose ground above and you risk kicking rocks onto teams below).