Chardonnet, North Face

Chardonnet North Face – D-TD , 4-500m , 9-11 hrs

The North Face of the Aiguille du Chardonnet boasts many great lines. Here, we describe two of the modern classics.

The Climbs – Modern couloir climbing an a classic alpine north face. Steep, technical pitches involved on both routes.

Experience – Previous scottish, alpine or ice climbing experience required. Technical climbing up to Scottish grade IV/V.

Guiding – if you are interested in climbing the Chardonnet North Face with a guide, check out our Alpine North Faces, Ice and Mixed Climbing and Grand Courses weeks.

The Charlet-Bettembourg and Escarra routes both involve steep ice climbing very much in the modern style, but on a difficult peak with an involved descent. They often come into condition after periods of bad weather at the start and end of the summer season.

The routes take lines on the right hand side of the north face, with continuous technical interest throughout. The Bettembourg is a more open climb – following a wide, steep couloir – whereas the Escarra follows a series of thinly iced grooves further left. Topping out right on the summit, makes for a great finish to either.

Descending the Chardonnet is equally involved, with down climbing and abseils involved to get down to the Col Adams Reilly and hence onto the Glacier du Tour.