Aiguille de Bionnassey – 4052m, Traverse

Aiguille de Bionnassey – 4052m, Traverse – AD , 700m , 9-10hrs

The Aiguille de Bionnassey is a classic narrow alpine snow crest, with some interesting rocky ridge climbing too if the traverse is followed. The climb requires good balance and excellent footwork in crampons.

The Climb –¬†A narrow and exposed alpine snow crest. Some good rocky ridge climbing too if the traverse is followed.

Experience –¬†Previous alpine climbing experience required. Good balance and excellent crampon skills essential.

Guiding – if you are interested in climbing the Aiguille de Bionnassey with a guide, check out our 1:1 Guiding Peaks week.

Approaching the Durier Hut from where the traverse starts is no easy task – involving either a traverse of the Domes de Miage, or a long day from Bellvue via the Plan Glacier Hut. The effort is well worth will though, in order to enjoy a night in a truly wild corner of the range.

From the hut the route starts easily enough, following a broad ridge which gradually narrows to a steeper rock buttress. Climbing this gives good pitches on sound rock, before a steady snow slope leads to the summit.

The route now changes character, becoming a narrow snow crest (knife edge in places) that first drops down, then climbs back up again to the Dome de Gouter – where the normal route on Mt Blanc is joined.