Scramble On! - by Twid Turner

Space below your boots, not another fleece or rucksack in sight, adrenaline pulsing through your veins. This is why most of us head off the well beaten track. For many the first taste of scrambling generally was a tentative foray off onto some rocky ridge, probably an unintended navigational error.

The excitement and exposure grabs us, or is it perhaps a chance of a wee exhilarating scare. Once you have scrabbled near the edge, those well-trodden paths are never the same. This self indulgent risk taking conveniently provides most with a good fishing story over a drink in your local boozer.  

Scrambling covers a wide remit. On the whole it allows steeper ground to be taken involving the use of the hands for balance.  A scramble is what a rock climber would call easy climbing ground.   In fact many of our popular Scrambles in the UK where recorded as climbs over a Century ago. Some still appear in rock climbing guides e.g. Cniefion Arete in Wales and the Anoach Eagach in Glen Coe. Some scrambles could mealy be a stiff walk with occasional use of the hands for balance, others a mini expedition involving rope-work more likely used on crags by rock climbers.  Many of our rugged mountain ridges provide fantastic airy scrambles.

Scrambles can be classified into three grades. Warning, be careful as each area in the UK can offer slightly different difficulty to each of the grades mainly due to historical development. Grade1 or Easy scrambles can either tackle a tricky step or just skirt the difficulties and reach the same top by a more meandering route. From time to time grade 2 terrain will narrow ridge or an unavoidable single route option, which may be better protected by the use of a rope. Grade 3 scrambles have sustained sections, which may be easy rock climbs. Generally it will involve short-pitched ground using ropes and rock climbing equipment.  If the scrambler is experienced and has good movement skills over the ground, they can feel totally in control. This experience counts for a huge amount, as not only has the person got to cope with the exposure and the climbing but also with whatever the elements has got to throw at them. Rain, wind and cold can transform solid rock and dry vegetation into an unreliable medium to pull and push on.

Sound route finding is imperative for safe travel. Initially chose the right scrambling objective for the team, not for the most experienced individual!  Guide books and then a 1:25,000 map can give you a head start. While approaching your scramble take stock of the whole objective. Remember that once you get engrossed on your ridge, or face, it will be hard to see ahead. Pick out and remember obvious landmarks from a distance e.g. the Cannon on the North Ridge of Tryfan. These landmarks can help you set your bearings in highly featured terrain. Also remember look for escape routes just in case things do not pan out as you first thought. Once on the scramble following paths and worn rock, they generally will point to the easier steps. Avoid loose rock, lush vegetation and watercourses as they can increase the objective hazards. Best only attempt tricky steps that you feel you can confidently back climb down. Most of the popular scrambles that appear in the guidebooks will generally have some signs of previous travel, so if you are looking for the easiest way, take care of probing onto virgin ground.

Experiencing the hills for oneself might have that romantic edge, but for most operating in teams offers safety, experience and camaraderie. Working as a team can reduce the seriousness of a tricky step by careful spotting, grabbing and fielding. Spotting needs to be as close to the individual as possible. This shadowing of the body by the braced spotters hands will not always stop a serious fall but at least 'splat' the person back onto the rock, enabling a chance at re-gripping things. Always aim to support the body to keep the head off the ground. In loose ground a helmet can be a sensible idea.  Once over a tricky section offer others advice and if need be give support by grabbing. Gripping tightly a shoulder strap or jacket can help prevent a slip becoming a fall. The grabber should always be well braced and balanced, others can help by holding the grabber in a form of chained boat race. The grabber should avoid linking hands with the scrambler as it will reduce their grip and balance and possibly pull both off. Best practice as a team in a non-serious position first.

When spotting becomes useless a rope can be invaluable. A useful rope should be long enough for the terrain and thick enough to handle safely. Generally a dynamic rope minimum diameter of 9mm and length of 30m offers a realistic comprise of usability and weight. Beware of washing line type ropes as they are very weak and impossible to hold! Ropes can be purchased from most reputable mountaineering shops.   A rope can provide a comfortable top rope for a nervous person on a serious step

But how does the first person protect themselves if a rope is needed? In most cases the first person effectively solos up relying on experience and skill. So get an experienced partner or best get instruction.  Limited protection can be offered to the leader if they are tied onto a rope and belayed by a second. The leader can pass their leading rope around spikes and if need be place runners (slings or wired chocks). These runners connected to the rope by karabiners will help prevent a big fall. The second can waist belay the rope around the back of their rucksack paying out the rope as the leader moves up and if need be in case the leader falls lock the rope around their waist.

For most the rope is for emergency use only, only to be pulled out when all other non-roped route options have been exhausted. For most walkers the chances are that only a rope is available in this emergency. Rope work needs to be kept simple.  A re-threaded overhand or figure of 8 knot generally offers a safe way of tying onto the end for both leader and second. For more serious scrambles climbing harnesses are preferable. A sling and locking Karabiner can be very useful especially when using an Italian hitch to help belay a second up a step (to belay means to handle the rope in a way to offer some safety).

To descend an unclimbable section an abseil (classic or New Zealand style) will offer a safe way down, but is always a last resort after finding no easy way to walk or climb down. Abseiling is serious and best avoided If attempting grade 2 or 3 scrambles rock climbing equipment is probably useful if not essential for most mere mortals. To use such equipment opens a huge can of worms for the non -rock climber. Basic rope work and use of leading equipment is best learnt from an experienced climber who can help teach the importance of judgement of anchor selection and appropriate rope system to manage the section. Better still learn from a professional. Rock climbing skills may conjure up restraint or lost freedom but in the end it can provides extra essential skills and experience of moving over steep ground.

Scrambling is about enjoying a challenge coupled with the exhilaration of dramatic scenery. Experience and knowledge of appropriate skills help reduce the risks. Most importantly only commit to going up something you feel you can get down!  And finally remember only follow others who inspire you with confidence not fill you with bravado. Scramble on.