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Cogne Ice Climbing Week

"The well known ice climbing centre of Cogne lies in Italy's beautiful Gran Paradiso National Park.  With a friendly welcome guaranteed, there is climbing suitable for all levels of ability and experience. For experienced climbers we can deliver a demanding week tackling some of the areas big classics such as Repentance (6) and Trip in the Night (5+)."
 
5 days
All Levels
2:1
Dates: 09 - 13 Jan 2012  
  16 - 20 Jan 2012  
  23 - 27 Jan 2012  
  30Ja - 3Feb 2012  
 
06 - 10 Feb 2012
 
Price: £895
Fitness: 2-3
Experience: Some previous rock climbing experience needed. Ice experience required for advanced level.
Included: Guiding Fees and Expenses.
Other Costs: Food + accom ~£400
 
Summary
A varied week of ice climbing in Cogne. For novices there is an emphasis on teaching basic skills and improving technique, with routes from French ice grade 3 - 5 (scottish grade 3 to 6).
We offer this week as a private guiding itinerary - with dates by arrangement from December to February. Prices are as per our private guiding rates, up to a maximum of 2 climbers per guide.
Recent Trip Reports - Cogne Ice Conds, Cogne Round Up, 2011 Ice Climbing
 
Course Base
We base ourselves in the Italian ice climbing centre of Cogne, climbing in both the main valley and other venues nearby during the week.
 
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
cogne ice climbing course itinerary
Day 0 - Sun Meet in Chamonix 7pm. Drive to Cogne in guides car (approx 1hr 45). Overnight in Cogne - course briefing and kit check.
Day 1 - Mon

Warm up Day - teaching axe/crampon skills and basic movement, or refresher for those who have climbed before.

A good route choice for day 1 is Cascade du Lillaz (3), an excellent 6 pitch climb with easy pitches separated by big snowy platforms – perfect for finding some space and learning the ropes.

Days 2 - 4 Tue - Thu

Classic icefall climbs of the Cogne valley , with ascents and skills training tailored to your requirements. Lots of route choice at all grades, with many routes within 30 mins walk of the hotel. Good examples include:

  • Lillaz Gully (4) – a superb mountaineering route up a deep couloir with many interesting and varied pitches.
  • Candelabro del Coyote (4+) – a steep cascade style route
  • Sentiero del Troll (3) – a long gully with many easy pitches
  • Tuborg (4+) – steep columns!

Fri PM - course debrief and advice for the future.

Day 5 Fri

Final Day - we may visit a neighbouring valley en route to Chamonix, eg Val Savaranche, for one of the excellent routes here, such as Rovenaud (4).

Mid afternoon depart for Chamonix, arriving approx 5pm.

PM Transfer to Geneva for evening flight, or overnight in Cham.

cogne ice climbing course
 
Food and Accommodation
Our recommended hotels in Cogne are the excellent Hotel La Barme and the bed and breakfast apartments Les Nigritelles (with evening meals taken in a nearby restaurant). These make excellent bases with good food, heated underground parking, drying rooms, wifi access, sauna etc. If you wish to stay in Chamonix for an extra night at the end of your trip we’re happy to make a recommendation.
 
Travel
We start and finish the week in Chamonix, which is easily reached by a flight to Geneva then an airport transfer, both of which can be booked online.
 
Ability and Experience
For intro level courses, you need no previous ice experience but should have climbed on rock previously - ie be able to tie on and belay safely. At intermediate level you need some previous snow or ice experience (in Scotland or the Alps) to get the most out of the week and at advanced level you should have previously climbed Scottish grade IV before starting the course.  Ice-fall climbing requires good levels of fitness & stamina (see fitness level 2-3) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular exercise and trips to your local climbing wall.
 
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
 
     
 
 
 
         
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