"The Mont Blanc range has the highest concentration of winter couloir climbs anywhere in the world, many of which are readily accessible with snowshoes or skis. On this unique cross over trip, you can sample the delights of technical ice climbing in a high alpine environment."
A week of 1:1 winter alpine climbing in the Mont Blanc range. The aim is to climb accessible ice couloirs in the AD to TD range - most routes have quick abseil descents, allowing you to climb with a light sac on.
We are also able to extend the scope of this week to attempt harder premium guiding routes - see notes below.
We will be based in Chamonix, climbing in the Mont Blanc range during the week.
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
Day 0 - Sun
PM, meet in Chamonix - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Day 1 - Mon
Acclimatisation Climb. Ascent of a winter couloir near to the Grand Montets or Aiguillle du Midi Cable cars. Return to valley overnight.
Days 2 - 5 Tue - Fri
Couloir Climbing. Based in mountain huts for 2-3 nights, we climb as many high quality ice couloirs as possible! Typical objectives could include:
Petit Viking
Frendo-Ravanel
Couloir du Plan
Cascade des Cosmiques
Gabarrou-Albinoni
Vogler Couloir
For those not familiar with the modern couloir climbs of the Mont Blanc range, we suggest you get hold of a copy of 'Snow, Ice and Mixed - Vols 1+2'. This is the bible of winter alpinism, as many of the famous winter classics that we climb do not feature in the Alpine Club guidebook series, which are written primarily for summer use.
On these specialist weeks, it is also possible to climb longer more involved routes, beyond the scope of our normal itinerary - for which premium guiding rates apply (paid as a supplement, on a per route basis). As a guideline, these apply to routes that involve one of the following: more than a 10-12hr day, bivouacs, over 500m long, TD or above. For example, routes on the following faces usually come into this category:
If you have a particular big objective in mind, then please contact us for a quote so we can discuss the route and conditions with you in more detail.
Food and Accommodation
We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis. Food and accommodation must be paid for seperately. Our recommended hotel in Chamonix is the Hotel Les Lanchers ** in Chamonix Les Praz, run by Jon and Celine - who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make other accommodation arrangements if you choose (Chamonix has numerous hotels and rental appartments available at a wide variety of prices - click on 'reservation' at the Chamonix website for more details).
Travel
Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online.
Ability and Experience
You need to be an experienced ice climber, with ascents of Scottish grade IV routes (or equivalent, as a minimum) and some summer alpinism under your belt. This is a strenuous Alpine climbing week, that will definitely be hard work at times (see fitness level 3-4) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular climbing related training down the wall or gym as well as cardiovascular exercise to handle route approaches (not to be underestimated in winter conditions).
Acclimatisation
Some pre acclimatisation for this course can be useful. This is especially so, if harder or premium guiding routes are planned.
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
