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Ecrins Rock Week

"A week of alpine rock climbing in the wild and remote Ecrins national park. There are no lifts, fewer crowds than most other alpine areas, and some great rock climbs on relatively unfrequented peaks… So be prepared for the walk ins, but savour the solitude and enjoy the friendly huts in this beautiful corner of the alps."
 
6 days
Inter-Adv
2:1
Dates: 24 - 29 June
Price: £1195
Fitness: 3-4
Experience: Previous alpine climbing experience required, plus seconding multipitch HVS on rock as a minimum.
Included: Guiding Fees and Expenses.
Other Costs: Accommodation, food, travel and uplift ~ £450
 
Summary
A weeks guided alpine rock climbing in the Ecrins National Park climbing classic alpine rock routes. We aim to warm up and enjoy some valley based routes, before getting into position for a superb high level traverse linking 3 different peaks in the second half of the week.
Typical grades are in the range D to TD.
 
Course Base
We meet in Bourg D'Oisans to start the week. Hut accommodation will be arranged by the guide to suit chosen climbing objectives.
 
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
ecrins rock climbing itinerary
Day 0 - Sat
PM, meet in Bourg D'Oisans - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Day 1 - Sun

Ascent of a rock route in Bourg D’Oisans region:

Eg Les Delices de Notre Dame TD-, 250m – climbing alongside an amazing waterfall in a high alpine valley. An ideal opportunity to refresh skills and warm up.

Overnight in Bourg d’Oisans
Day 2 - Mon

Drive to La Berarde, do a multipitch route near La Berarde.

Eg the Tete de la Maye, Paravalanche etc Many options to choose from around 6-10 pitches in length. Overnight in Bourg/La Berarde.

Day 3 - Tue
Mellow day - walk to Chatelleret hut, and the start of an amazing three day enchainment linking 3 high alpine rock routes in 3 different valleys.
Day 4 - Wed
Ascent of Pillier Cheze on Tete Sud du Replat (3428m), D-. A superb high mountain rock route to a great viewpoint. Descend normal route to the Selle hut in the beautiful ‘Vallon du Diable’. Overnight in Selle hut
Day 5 - Thu
Ascent of North Ridge of Pointe d’Amont (3338m), D. A striking line on good rock in an austere setting above the Glacier du Diable. Descend south side of peak to the Soreiller hut.
Day 6 - Fri

Ascent of the famous Madier route on the areas premier rock climbing peak – the Aiguille Dibona (3131m), TD-. Return to La Berarde and Bourg d’Oisans. Overnight in Bourg. Transfer home on day 7 (Saturday).

Other Possibilities - there is a lot of scope to vary the difficulty and logistics of the traverse, an easier variant being an ascent of Pic Geny, descending to the Soreiller hut, climbing the Dibona by an easier route, and staying an extra night in the Soreiller hut to tackle a route on the Tete Rouget. Other areas within driving distance offer further scope eg the limestone Massif des Cerces north of the Ecrins national park, and the Ailfroide region on the opposite side of the park. The itinerary can be altered to suit weather/conditions and ability of the group.

ecrins rock climbing
 
Food and Accommodation
We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis. Food and accommodation must be paid for seperately. Details of our recommended accommodation in the Ecrins are provided with your joining instructions. The guide will book accommodation for the week, which you pay for direct as we go along.
 
Travel
Full travel details are provided with your joining instructions. Bourg D'Oisans is most easily reached by a low cost flight to Grenoble or Lyon, then a coach transfer to Bourg D'Oisans. If you choose to hire a car, then driving times to Bourg D'Oisans are about 1hr from Grenoble, 2hrs from Lyon or Chambery and up to 3hrs from Geneva.

Airport Pickup For this week it may be possible to arrange a pickup from the airport - please contact us for more details.

 
Ability and Experience
You need to be an experienced rock climber, able to second multipitch HVS as a minimum and have some alpine experience using axe and crampons (for approaches/descents). This is a strenuous week of climbing with the second half being quite demanding and requiring good overall endurance as well as solid rock climbing ability at HVS. Good levels of fitness are required as typical routes involve 6-9 hours climbing each day (see fitness level 3-4) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular exercise and training.
 
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
 
     
 
 
 
         
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