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Climb The Matterhorn

"Lets face it, every climber who's ever seen the Matterhorn has had a secret wish to climb it one day! A long and difficult climb by any route, the mountain requires good levels of fitness, alpine experience and favourable conditions for success. Following an acclimatisation program in the Mont Blanc Massif, we move accross to Zermatt to target the best weather window for a successful summit bid."
 
6 days
Advanced
2:1/1:1
Dates: 08 Jul - 24 Aug  
   
Price: £1795
Fitness: 3
Experience: Previous alpine AD climbing experience essential, good scrambling ability required, as well as ability to climb V Diff rock easily in big boots with a rucsac on.
Included: Guiding Fees and Expenses.
Other Costs: Accommodation, food, travel and uplift ~ £425
 
Summary
This is a dedicated guiding week focused on climbing either the Hornli Ridge or Italian Ridge of the Matterhorn. Both routes are long and committing days and dry, snow free conditions are required on the route to safely reach the summit.
The acclimatisation and training program at the start of the week is guided at 2:1, with the Matterhorn guided at 1:1.
Recent Trip Reports - Matterhorn Ascent, Matterhorn Conds
 
Course Base
We meet in Chamonix at the start of the week as it is easier to reach and offers better acclimatisation opportunities, then move to Zermatt to make our ascent.
 
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
climb the matterhorn itinerary
Day 0 - Sat PM, meet in Chamonix - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Days 1 - 3 Sun - Tue

Three days of training and acclimatisation, usually based at the Torino Hut.

Typical training climbs include the traverse of the Aiguille D'Entreves, Tour Ronde SE Ridge and the Dent du Geant. Maximum ratio 2:1.

Tue PM - Return to Chamonix

Days 4 - 6 Wed - Fri

Travel across to Zermatt and make use of the best weather window to climb the Matterhorn.

Choice of route depends on fitness, experience and current mountain conditions. (Eg the Italian ridge is a more committing route). Maximum ratio 1:1.

Fri PM return to Chamonix.

NB Climbing Conditions on the Matterhorn You need be aware when booking that good, dry conditions on the route are essential for making a safe ascent. If the Matterhorn is snowed up and out of condition, then a high quality alternative on another peak will always be offered.

Possible Climbs
- hornli ridge
- dent du geant
- aiguille d'entreves
- tour ronde se ridge
 
 
 
climb the matterhorn
 
Food and Accommodation
We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis. Food and accommodation must be paid for seperately. Our recommended accommodation in the Chamonix valley is Ice and Orange - Chalet Tissières, who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make other accommodation arrangements if you choose (for a full hotel service, Hotel Les Lanchers in Chamonix Les Praz is another good option - Chamonix has numerous other hotels and rental apartments available at a wide variety of prices - click on 'reservation' at the Chamonix website for more details).
 
Travel
Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online.
 
Ability and Experience
You need previous AD alpine climbing experience and must be sure footed enough to move quickly and safely over exposed scrambling terrain as well as climb V Diff rock easily in big boots with a rucsac on. Your guide will undertake a series of training climbs at the start of the week to confirm your fitness and ability levels before embarking on the ascent. Climbing the Matterhorn requires good levels of fitness and stamina, as the summit day involves 8-12 hours technical climbing at high altitude (see fitness level 3) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular exercise and training.
 
Acclimatisation
Some pre acclimatisation for this week is strongly recommended, as objectives are above 4000m and involve technical climbing at altitude, where you will need to be climbing quickly and safely.
 
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
 
     
 
 
 
         
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