"Mont Blanc is the highest summit in Western Europe and a classic mountaineering challenge. Our training and acclimatisation program involves reaching 4000m prior to making the final ascent. Acclimatising properly like this makes a huge difference on the final summit day."
The course involves six days guided climbing, consisting of a training and acclimatisation program prior to the ascent of Mont Blanc.
Mont Blanc itself will be attempted via the Gouter or Cosmiques routes (conditions allowing): both are long and committing mountain days providing magnificent panoramas. Typical grades for this course are in the PD to AD range.
We base ourselves in the world famous alpine resort of Chamonix, climbing in the Mont Blanc range and other venues nearby in Italy and Switzerland during the week.
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
Day 0 - Sat
PM, meet in Chamonix - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Day 1 - Sun
Travel toItaly and ascend to the Vittorio Emanuele Hut (2719m) in the beautiful Gran Paradiso National Park. PM Ropework and skills training near to the hut - maximum ratio 4:1.
Day 2 - Mon
Ice axe and cramponskills training and ascent of La Tresenta (3609m) a perfect acclimatisation peak near to the hut - maximum ratio 4:1.
Unlike a typical Mont Blanc program, this is a quiet summit where it's not unusual to have it all to yourself. The views from the summit are awesome.
Opportunities are available during the course to cover alpine skills such as glacier travel, crevasse rescue etc.
Day 3 - Tue
Ascent of the Gran Paradiso (4061m) - maximum ratio 3:1 on the final 100m to the summit. A long steady snow climb on this popular italian classic.
Spending 2 nights in a hut, climbing first to 3600m and then to 4000m is an important part of our acclimatisation program - using this staged approach and climbing to 4000m considerably increases your chances of reaching the summit of Mont Blanc later in the week.
Final preparations in the valley, before heading up to either the Tete Rousse or Cosmiques Huts ready to make the ascent of Mont Blanc.
This is a steady recovery day, in order to prepare for the big climb ahead.
Day 5 - Thu
Climb Mont Blanc (4808m) - make the ascent of Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route from the Tete Rousse Hut, or the Trois Monts Route from the Cosmiques Hut - maximum ratio 2:1.
Either route is a long commiting day, involving 9-12hrs climbing at altitude. Usually we descend to the Tete Rousse Hut and spend the night there.
Day 6 - Fri
AM Descend to Chamonix - or reserve day in case of bad weather, to make a final attempt at the summit.
It is possible to reach the valley the same day as climbing Mont Blanc, but obviously this makes the summit day longer. If we descend to the valley on day 5 after making the summit, then there are numerous options for a final days climbing on day 6.
Please note that we do not take bookings from people involved in sponsored climbs or challenge events of any kind - especially for Mont Blanc - as the pressure to succeed on a single fixed objective can make people behave in ways which conflict with mountain safety or can affect the enjoyment of others on the trip. Our itineraries are designed for folk with an ongoing interest in mountaineering, rather than those interested in making one off ascents.
Food and Accommodation
We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis. Food and accommodation must be paid for seperately. Our recommended accommodation in the Chamonix valley is Ice and Orange - Chalet
Tissières, who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make other accommodation arrangements if you choose (for a full hotel service, Hotel Les Lanchers in Chamonix Les Praz is another good option - Chamonix has numerous other hotels and rental apartments available at a wide variety of prices - click on 'reservation' at the Chamonix website for more details).
Travel
Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online.
Ability and Experience
You need good general fitness and and experience in UK mountains (summer or winter) - full training in use of crampons and ice axe is provided during the week. To make a successful ascent of Mont Blanc you need good cardiovascular fitness and plenty of stamina - as the summit day will involve 9 - 12 hours climbing at high altitude (see fitness level 3) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with full days out in the UK hills and other regular exercise.
Altitude and Acclimatisation
The effects of altitude are a significant issue when climbing Mont Blanc, as it is considerably higher than other peaks in the Alps. How you acclimatize and cope with altitude is strongly determined by genetics, so it's an area where age and fitness makes little difference. For this reason it's important to follow an appropriate acclimatisation plan.
Our acclimatisation program involves sleeping at a mid altitude mountain hut for at least two nights and climbing progressively to 4000m. Reaching this altitude prior to the ascent of Mont Blanc makes a big difference on summit day. Several days acclimatisation are essential to make an enjoyable ascent, so we recommend you arrive a few days early to spend some time at altitude before starting the course.
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
