"A dedicated private guiding week based in this stunning area of Eastern Switzerland. A huge variety of climbing is available, including some of the most famous ridge and face climbs in the Alps - snow and ice in the high peaks of the Bernina and perfect granite rock climbing in the Bregaglia."
5-6 days
Inter-Adv
2:1
Dates:
By Arrangement
Price:
Private Guiding Rates
Fitness:
3-4
Experience: Alpine experience req'd, multipitch rock, French 5 (VS) or higher.
Included:Guiding Fees.
Other Costs:Accommodation, food, travel and uplift ~ £400
Guides Expenses:You are also responsible for meeting the guides expenses - see alpine costs for info.
The Bernina offers alpine ridge climbing and high glaciated terrain, whilst the Bregaglia has some of the best long granite rock routes in the Alps. Typical grades are in the range PD to TD- with premium guiding also available for harder objectives.
We offer this itinerary as a private guiding special - with dates by arrangement from mid June to mid Sept. Prices are as per our private guiding rates, up to a maximum of 2 climbers per guide.
We can either meet in Chamonix, or at one of the Milan Airports to start and finish the week. Valley accommodation will be arranged by the guide to suit chosen climbing objectives.
Sample Itinerary
Subject to weather and conditions, we follow the general format below:
Day 0 - Sat
PM Rendezvous. This can be either in Chamonix, or at one of the Milan Airports (Bergamo or Linate).
Day 1 - Sun
Either drive over from Chamonix, climbing a route in the famous Lecco region on the way - or head straight into the mountains if meeting at Milan.
Days 2 - 6 Mon - Fri
Bernina-Bregaglia Climbing. A varied and challenging week of alpine climbing, tailored to your ability and ambitions. Possible areas and routes could include:
High Summits in the Bernina:Piz Bernina, Piz Palu, Piz Roseg, Piz Morterasch...
Alpine Rock in the Bregaglia: Piz Badile, Gemelli, Albigna Dam...
In both ranges, it is quite possible to link routes and areas as part of a multiday traverse.
On these specialist weeks, it is also possible to climb longer more involved routes, beyond the scope of our normal itinerary - for which premium guiding rates apply (paid as a supplement, on a per route basis). As a guideline, these apply to routes that involve one of the following: more than a 10-12hr day, bivouacs, over 500m long, TD or above. For example, the following routes would come into this category:
Piz Badile - Cassin Route
Piz Scerscen - Traverse
If you have a particular big objective in mind, then please contact us for a quote so we can discuss the route and conditions with you in more detail.
Food and Accommodation
This week is run on a private guiding basis, so food and accommodation (for yourself and the guide) must be paid for as we go along. Valley and hut accomodation for the week will be arranged by the guide to suit chosen climbing objectives.
Travel
Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online. Several airlines offer low cost flights to Milan Bergamo and Milan Linate airports.
Ability and Experience
You need some previous alpine climbing experience, as well as multipitch rock climbing at French 5 (HS-VS) or higher in order to get the most out of this week. Good levels of fitness are required as typical routes involve 4-10 hours climbing each day (see fitness level 3-4) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular training and climbing.
Acclimatisation
Some pre acclimatisation for this course would be useful if you want to concentrate on climbing the highest peaks in the Bernina (arriving a few days early and staying in St Moritz would be a good way to do this). The rock faces in the Bregaglia range are lower, with summit heights at around 3000m.
Equipment
We will supply you with a full kit list. All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. For the more technical items (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots etc) local equipment hire is also available.
