Alpine Guides - Advice Article about Rock and Ice Climbing, Mountaineering Expeditions and Course, Off Piste + Ski Mountaineering, UK, Scotland, Alps, Chamonix, Switzerland

Advice on choosing a guide - ascent of the Finsteraarhorn

The mountaineering world now has a wide range of companies offering courses, holidays and expeditions to innumerable destinations around the world. Like all industries there are some very good operators, but also one or two less reliable outfits and a few things you need to be aware of.

We include the following advice to help you make an informed decision about the kind of trip you are interested in - whether it's one of our own, somebody elses, or an area we don't operate in.

The information is arranged so you can either read the whole article in one (recommended), or dip into the following areas for specific advice:

NB The advice you read below has not been written as a marketing tool. We are a small, successful company who generate more than enough work for our guides already. Our sole concern here is to help you choose the right kind of trip, with the right operator and have a good time.

Since we published this advice however, we've noticed one or two outfits quietly rewriting much of their website content to uncannily mirror exactly what you read below...

Although it's nice that folk are reading what we have to say - we leave it for you to check out the reputation of individual operators, rather than merely going on what they have to say about themselves!

It may come as a surprise, but in the UK we have no law requiring a person to be officially trained or qualified to work as a climbing guide. When booking a trip through an operator, the central questions you need answering are who your guide is going to be and what qualifications, training and experience they have for the type of activity you wish to do.

When you contact a company, be sure to ask who your guide is likely to be. Due to uncertainties with final numbers, they may find it difficult to answer this question - but either way seek some guarantee about the minimum staff training and qualification levels for the course you want. Any good company will have a policy on this, which you can then check against the training levels below. If you have a favourite guide or would like to climb with someone you have heard good things about, then ask for them by name. If they are unavailable, then ask the guide or someone else you know you can trust for a recommendation - an individual you have built up a personal relationship with is more likely to have your interests at heart.

Most good guides enjoy good relations with their colleagues - and if they recommend you to a competitor, that speaks well of both the guide doing the recommending and the guide being commended to you. Good outfits always have a regular team that work for them a lot and will usually publish information on their staff - as a rule, the more information they are prepared to put out the better. We usually recommend companies that are actually owned by guides, or national centres that employ full time guides on their staff - as this is the best way to ensure that professional guides are genuinely involved in the planning and safety of every trip from the start, rather than simply hired in to fulfil work contracts.

The main thing to remember is to choose the guide first and then the operator. We recommend you hire a guide properly trained and qualified to work in the area you are going to visit, for the activities envisaged.

Almost without exception, you should go for the lowest client/guide ratio you can afford. The reasons for this are numerous, but they chiefly concern speed, safety and success. Smaller teams move much faster in the mountains, which means you are less exposed to objective dangers such as ice fall and avalanches, as well as threats that may increase later in the day, like poor snow conditions, rock fall, thunderstorms and benightment.

With a smaller group, the guide has a wider variety of techniques available to protect the party and still move quickly enough to achieve your objective, which means you can venture onto bigger and better climbs. Your chances of reaching the summit are greatly increased and you also get more personal attention during teaching sessions. It's worth looking carefully at stated ratios, as phrases like "2:1 for the ascent of Mt Bloggs" may mean you have a poorer ratio for the rest of the trip - always seek clarification if you are unsure.

Low ratios are sometimes more expensive, but for the increased enjoyment and greater chances of success, they are normally well worth the cost.

There are two bodies within the UK that administer mountaineering qualifications. Mountain Training UK (MTUK) set standards of training and assessment for qualifications valid within the UK and the British Association of Mountain Guides (BMG) train UK candidates for the IFMGA/UIAGM international mountain guides carnet.

You always see lots of qualifications quoted in brochures and publicity, but problems sometimes arise when a company doesn't make it clear whether the training is actually relevant to the activity being undertaken. That's not to say that a leader lacking formal qualifications won't do an excellent job in most situations - it's for the time when things don't go according to plan that you may want assurance. Below, we explain what each mountaineering qualification means and where it is applicable:

Obviously, the further up the ladder you go the higher the standard, as candidates are expected to show a greater depth of experience, range of skills and climbing ability to gain each subsequent qualification.

Other Awards You may come across some of these other awards which cover a range of outdoor activities, but do not include roped climbing in mountain terrain:

Also of crucial importance, is the validity of your guides or instructors civil liability insurance. The standard insurance policies held by AMI and BMG members only cover working within the remit of each qualification. ie if it's a UK qualification, then AMI insurance is only valid for work within the UK not elsewhere - and if it's a summer qualification, then it's not valid for winter work etc. There is a lot of confusion in this area, with many instructors purchasing AMI 'European cover' in the belief that they can then offer courses overseas with their UK qualification - which according to the insurers is not the case. Apart from the IFMGA guides carnet, the only UK qualification valid in Europe is the international mountain leader award (IML - formerly known as the EML) which is valid for leading walking groups below the glacier line.

It is illegal to operate without civil liability insurance. Furthermore, as a client you stand very little chance of getting compensation from a negligence case if something went wrong (and your rescue insurance wouldn't be valid either!). Many outdoor centres and expedition companies do have insurance policies which cover staff working outside the remit of formal qualifications - however it is worth asking to see a copy of the certificate if a company appears to have staff working without qualifications, or outside the scope of their qualification (some companies claim to offer 'coaching' advice rather than instruction or guiding in an attempt to get around the law - however if money has changed hands, then they owe you a duty of care and must be insured. Written or video taped disclaimers are sometimes asked for - but these have no validity in English law).

If in any doubt, ask to see the guides or companys up to date Certificate of Civil Liability Insurance. Every company is required by Law to have it displayed at their premises and must be able to show it on request.

For many British hillgoers, Scottish winter mountaineering provides a first taste of snow and ice climbing in the UK. Wild weather and fickle conditions can make it a daunting place to venture out in winter, so Scottish winter skills courses have become very popular. If you have just read the section above, this will have answered many of your questions about the of various types of qualifications and training to look for when booking a guide in Scotland - ie background and experience, plus MIC or IFMGA qualifications or other appropriate professional training.

The other thing you need to be ready for is the nature of the weather and climbing conditions. Frequent strong winds and a damp climate make for difficult mountain conditions much of the time and visiting climbers from around the globe never cease to be amazed at the kind of weather Scottish mountaineers venture out into most weekends!

Having said that, the clear days are simply magical and climbing in wild weather is still great fun - provided you are well prepared for it. Good fitness is at a premium and all kit - especially boots and shell clothing - needs to be of a high quality if you are going to stay reasonably warm and dry throughout the day.

Scotland in winter offers a unique climbing experience, but you need to be fit and prepared to put the effort in to reap the rewards.

As already mentioned, strict laws apply to professional guiding in the Alps - with only IFMGA guides being allowed to work legally (You will often see the phrase 'UIAGM Guide' used, which is the French acronym - this is the same qualification).

Below we have included specific advice about Mt Blanc and the Matterhorn as these two mountains are the subject of many enquiries each season. It is important when booking an alpine climbing holiday to be aware that several days acclimatisation are required before setting off onto the highest peaks.

For instance, if you are coming straight from the UK and heading onto peaks over 4000m, then without a realistic acclimatisation program you will probably struggle. A good operator should advise you about the need or otherwise for pre acclimatisation for each of their trips. If this is recommended then you can either book on a lower altitude itinerary the week before, or arrive early and spend some time at altitude before the course starts (Some alpine huts can be reached relatively easily, so a day or two spent trekking or sleeping high will certainly help - but seek advice before you set off).

The other thing to be aware of is the effect that weather has on climbing conditions. Ice and mixed routes like cold snowy conditions that are more commonly found at the start and end of the season (ie June + Sept), rock routes are usually best when at their driest in high summer and classic snow climbs and glacier crossings are generally easier earlier in the season. That's not to say that every summer follows the same pattern, as some seasons bring a heat wave in June and followed by snow in August!

It pays to be flexible in your outlook and if a chosen objective is not in condition, then rest assured that a good guide will always work hard to make the best use of the time available. This is when a set of wheels and a flexible approach can prove important.

Finally, specialist mountaineering insurance covering helicopter rescue and medical treatment is absolutely essential when climbing in the Alps.

We recommend you look for the UIAGM/IFMGA logo when making a booking, to ensure that your trip has been planned from the start by a qualified guide.

Every spring the BMG office receives dozens of enquiries from adventurous individuals looking for a good deal to climb Mont Blanc. Many have limited mountaineering experience and need sound advice before choosing an appropriate trip.

First off - in response to the demand, dozens of organisations have sprung up offering Mont Blanc trips - some of whom are more respectable than others, despite what all the marketing may claim. Although Mont Blanc is not technically difficult in good conditions, it is still a big and serious mountain with all the attendant dangers that this entails. Many clients find the summit day the most exhausting thing they have ever done - marathons included.

Arriving from the UK, a 6 day itinerary is the minimum you should consider. Even then a certain percentage of people just don't acclimatize quickly enough, as everyone has their own acclimatisation rate which cannot be improved by fitness. Any company that tries to sell you a trip shorter than this knows full well you stand a negligible chance of summiting.

You also need to be clear about what you are getting. To save money many operators run at a ratio of 4:1 for the first 4 days, then bring in extra guides to provide a 2:1 ratio for the ascent. This means you are very limited in the actual climbing you can do whilst acclimatising and only get a single shot at the summit. Lower ratio trips may cost more, but you invariably get a far better weeks climbing as a result.

Finally - there is always a very high demand for guides on Mont Blanc in the main season. If you are serious about making an attempt, then whatever you do don't leave it last minute to try and find a guide. Nowadays it's difficult to find a British guide from May onwards for a 6 day Mont Blanc course (forget 2/3 day bookings) and by July they're hitting the delete key without even opening your email! Some agencies specialise in last minute MB bookings - but expect to pay through the nose for such a service, rather than getting a cheap last minute deal.

Mont Blanc is a great mountain and a fine objective - but bear in mind that experienced climbers still treat the peak with due caution and respect, as they know it to be one of the most serious summits in the Alps.

Who hasn't dreamed of one day climbing the Matterhorn? The epitomy of a great mountain. This is also a peak not to be underestimated, as there are few belays and guides can only look after one client at a time. Dry conditions are needed underfoot and in some summers this can also prove difficult. To make an ascent you need to be sure footed and quick at scrambling, as well as have good levels of fitness and some rock climbing ability.

Due to the altitude and difficulties involved, you ideally need to be out in the Alps acclimatizing for a week or so prior to the ascent. The Zermatt guides now make clients take a fitness test as well as requiring minimum levels of experience before taking a booking. Regardless of who you book with, your guide will always want to know your experience and check you out before setting foot on the mountain - any company not asking these kinds of questions is more interested in your booking than whether you stand a realistic chance of summiting.

An ascent of the Matterhorn is always dependant on good, dry conditions on the route - which are unlikely to be found before mid July or after the end of August.

Due to the seriousness of remote and high altitude ranges, we can only really recommend you climb with a fully qualified IFMGA Guide and one who has extensive prior experience climbing at the altitudes you will be visiting. Unfortunately, in the UK at least, finding a trip staffed by an IFMGA guide can proved difficult - as most UK expeditions still use unqualified guides.

Always question the operator carefully to find out exactly who your guide will be and what the guiding ratio is. It is not uncommon for companies to use, say a 4:1 ratio up to the top camp, then ask the guide to lead 2 summit parties on consecutive days whilst climbing at 2:1 on more serious terrain. This obviously saves money, but halves the number of days available to make a summit bid for each client.

To help differentiate professionally lead expeditions from other trips, there is a new standard that guides may adhere to in order to use the IFMGA logo to advertise their expeditions. Any expedition meeting the IFMGA standard must be professionally planned, staffed by IFMGA guides and have thorough medical safety and evacuation contingencies, as well as radio and satellite communications at base camp and on the mountain. As yet there are few that meet the criteria, but hopefully more companies will decide to do so in the future.

Also worth finding out about, is the planned style of ascent - are you expecting to be climbing Alpine style, placing intermediate camps, or following a fixed rope for most of the route? In general, climbs on 5-6000m peaks are often Alpine in stature (albeit starting a little higher) and are usually done in this style when guided at a low ratio - if not, then fixed rope is used. On higher peaks (for guided trips at least), intermediate camps are the norm - the variable factor being how much fixed rope is placed up the route.

You must be aware that when climbing at extreme altitudes, (ie 7/8000m peaks) the amount of protection and assistance a guide can provide is greatly reduced, particularly in the case of problems. There are dangers involved in high altitude mountaineering that cannot be eliminated and you need to understand and fully accept that it can be extremely risky. Helicopter evacuation will only possible from base camp at very best.

Finally, the size of team makes a big difference to the experience you have on a trip. In big groups there's always something going on, but it can sometimes feel impersonal - whereas in smaller teams there are less folk to choose from, but the group pulls together more easily. Each set up has it's own merits.

On expeditions to remote and high altitude ranges, we recommend you climb with an IFMGA Guide who also has extensive prior experience climbing at the altitudes you will be visiting.

It's worth knowing that due to the constant risk of avalanche and the speed at which a group can venture into danger, guides consider off piste skiing to be the most serious form of work they do. As in climbing, only IFMGA guides are allowed to operate off piste in glacial terrain the Alps. Some ski instructors are allowed to take groups off piste too - so long as no glaciers are involved, but definitely not the tour hosts and reps that commonly show skiers around the pisted runs within large resorts.

Be sure to know exactly what you want from your days skiing before you book, as guides are trained to look after groups off piste and on glaciers and find the best snow for their clients: ie give you a great days skiing. They are not trained as professional ski instructors - so although the guide will usually give tips to help you enjoy your day out, if you are after dedicated instruction then hire a professional ski instructor.

Guides are however the people to teach off piste awareness and avalanche safety, as well as all the mountain skills associated with ski touring and back country travel in winter. (On many off piste courses, both guides and instructors work in tandem through the week). As with climbing in the Alps, specialist medical and rescue insurance is a must. Many standard ski insurance packages specifically exclude off piste skiing, but some allow it in the company of a guide - check the terms carefully. The other option is to buy full mountaineering insurance which covers off piste skiing as part of the cover.

When booking on a scheduled itinerary, the golden rule is to make absolutely sure you know exactly what is and is not included in the course fee. Details like whether hut fees, uplift costs, evening meals or kit hire are included can make a huge difference to the real cost of the trip and comparing the value of different offerings can be difficult. Guiding ratios and the standard of accommodation are also areas that can vary a lot.

Courses vary from private guiding & tailor made itineraries, where you pay for food and accomodation costs direct - to fully inclusive packages which may include flights from the UK. Many however include: guiding fees and expenses, hut fees and meals, some form of valley accommodation (which can vary from a good hotel to B+B or self catering) plus transport during the course. Often excluded are: uplift costs, lunches, boot hire and travel to the course base. Variable items often include evening meals, hire of climbing kit and transport (which is essential to make the best of fickle weather). To help, we've put down approximate costs for various items which may or may not be included in a package:

When hiring a private guide, you are responsible for paying the guides expenses whilst in the hills ie uplift costs and hut fees/meals. When working away from their seasonal base, the guides' valley accommodation will also have to be taken care of.

Getting properly kitted out for your adventure is another area where much money is often spent. You will be provided with a kit list when you book in order to start getting things together in good time. If it's been written by a guide, then you will probably get item specific advice to help choose the best kit for each particular trip.

Always find out exactly what you are expected to provide yourself, what is provided for free and how much the other items will cost to buy or hire - as outdoor kit is seldom cheap. Below we have listed typical hire costs for various items.

Mountain Boots	£40 /week
Ice Axe	£10-12 /week
Crampons	£10-12 /week
Helmet	£5-6 /week
Harness	£5-6 /week
Rock Boots	£4-5 /day
Ski Safety Kit	£30 /week for a tranceiver, shovel + probe
Ski Touring Skis	£100 for skis, skins and harscheisen

On expeditions, also check out whether you are expected to bring your own base camp tent - as this is another expensive item not always included.

The IFMGA Mountain Guides Carnet is the highest award in mountaineering and the only internationally recognised qualification for working in mountainous glaciated terrain. The International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations - IFMGA (or UIAGM in French) is made up of the national guiding associations of 17 member countries. All work to the same strict training syllabus and assessment standards which are regularly monitored between nations. In so far as it is possible, the associations try to ensure that traveling guides are allowed to work freely in the mountain regions of other member nations. To guide in the Alps you must have the IFMGA qualification.

Becoming an IFMGA guide is no easy task - high entry requirements ensure that only a handful of individuals are selected each year to start the rigorous training. There are tough assessments in each of the key mountain disciplines (Rock, Ice, Alpinism and Skiing) over a 3 year course which also includes a wide range of professional topics including first aid and rescue training, sports physiology, coaching, the law, professional standards, environmental issues, mountain weather, snow science, avalanche forecasting, mountain history, flora and fauna and foreign languages.

Aspirant guides then undergo an alpine and a skiing apprenticeship period in the latter part of their training, when they work alongside senior guides. When you consider that British trainees have to fund the course by working between various training and assessment programs, then you can see it takes a big financial commitment and plenty of determination to see it through.

The essential difference between the IFMGA carnet and other qualifications is the higher climbing standard required and the broader range of guiding specific techniques that need to be mastered in order to move quickly and safely on glaciated terrain. In particular, British Mountain Guides are widely respected for their quality of work, attention to detail and client safety.

Mountain Guide Advice