Alpinism
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The Mont Blanc range has the highest concentration of winter couloir climbs anywhere in the world, many of which are readily accessible with snowshoes or skis. On this unique cross over trip, you can sample the delights of technical ice climbing in a high alpine environment. [Back to Icefalls Section] Run at the end of winter when temperatures are enjoyable in the high mountains, most routes have quick abseil descents - allowing hundreds of meters of ice climbing with just a light sac. This is nevertheless a
challenging week, best suited to keen winter climbers and alpinists who
have climbed Scottish III/IV. Some nights are spent in huts to maximise climbing (see couloir climbing photos). Sample Itinerary Subject to weather and conditions we follow the general format below: Day 0 Sun Day 1 Mon Acclimatisation route – ascent of a winter couloir near to the Grand Montets or Aiguillle du Midi Cable cars. Return to valley overnight. Days 2-5 Tue - Fri Couloir Climbing. Based in mountain huts for 2-3 nights, we climb as many high quality ice couloirs as possible! Typical objectives could include: For those not familiar with the modern couloir climbs of the Mont Blanc range, we suggest you get hold of a copy of 'Snow, Ice and Mixed - Vols 1+2'. This is the bible of winter alpinism, as many of the famous winter classics that we climb do not feature in the Alpine Club guidebook series, which are written primarily for summer use. NB Premium Guiding - on these specialist weeks, we also often guide longer more involved routes, beyond the scope of our normal itinerary - for which premium guiding rates apply (paid as a supplement, on a per route basis). As a guideline these apply to routes that involve any of the following: more than a 10-12hr day, bivouacs, over 500m long, TD or above. For example, routes on the following faces usually come into this category: If you have a particular objective in mind, then please contact us for a quote so we can discuss the route and conditions with you in more detail. Food and Accommodation We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis to allow you maximum flexibility with accommodation options. Our recommended hotel in Chamonix is the Hotel Les Lanchers ** in Chamonix Les Praz, run but friendly ex-pat Jon Rodgers - who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make whatever accommodation arrangements you like. A number of nights are also spent in Alpine huts to maximise climbing time during the week. Your guide will book these as necessary& you simply pay for hut fees direct as you go along (the guides hut and uplift expenses are all covered within the course budget). Travel Full travel details are provided with your joining instructions. Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online. Fitness This is a strenuous Alpine climbing week, that will definitely be hard work at times (see fitness level 3-4)- so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular climbing related training down the wall or gym as well as cardiovascular exercise to handle route approaches (not to be underestimated in winter conditions).
Experience You need to be an experienced ice climber, with ascents of Scottish grade IV routes and some summer alpinism under your belt in order to enjoy this week. Equipment All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to provide personal clothing and climbing equipment. Skis or snowshoes may be hired locally if needed for access. |
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