The aim of this 2 week course is to make the ultra classic traverse of Mont Blanc via one of its more challenging and interesting lines of ascent. Allowing a full week of training and acclimatisation, followed by several days to make the ascent results in far higher summiting rates than on a single week itinerary.
Ten
days guided climbing are included over a 12 day period: we stick to a low guiding ratio throughout, so that other great climbs can be attempted as we prepare for the big one.During the start of the course we will explore some classic climbs whilst we acclimatise and sample the flavour of the Mont Blanc Massif. Mont Blanc itself will then be attempted via the Cosmiques or Italian routes (conditions allowing): both are long and committing mountain days involving sections of ice climbing and providing magnificent panoramas. Typical grades for this course are in the PD to AD range. (see: mont blanc photos).
Sample Itinerary Subject to weather and conditions we follow the general format below:
Day 0
Sun
PM meet in Chamonix - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Ascents of quality mountain routes in the PD to AD range, with nights spent in mountain huts according to the weather.
Opportunities are available throughout the course to cover alpine skills such as crevasse rescue. The middle weekend is spent resting in preparation for the second more strenuous week.
Days 8-10
Wed-Fri
Ascend to the Cosmiques/Gonella hut to get into position for the ascent of Mont Blanc.
Make the classic traverse of Mont Blanc over Mont Blanc du Tacul/Mont Maudit from the Cosmiques hut, or via the majestic Aiguilles Grises Route on the Italian side from the Gonella hut.
NB Charity Climbs & Challenge Events Please note that we do not take bookings from people involved in sponsored climbs or challenge events of any kind - especially for Mont Blanc - as the pressure to succeed on a single fixed objective can make people behave in ways which conflict with mountain safety or can affect the enjoyment of others on trip. Our itineraries are designed for folk with an ongoing interest in mountaineering, rather than those interested in making one off ascents.
Food and AccommodationWe run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis to allow you maximum flexibility with accommodation options.Our recommended hotel in Chamonix is theHotel Les Lanchers **(see photos) in Chamonix Les Praz, run but friendly ex-pat Jon Rodgers - who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make whatever accommodation arrangements you like. A number of nights are also spent in Alpine huts to maximise climbing time during the week. Your guide will book these as necessary & you simply pay for hut fees direct as you go along (the guides car fuel, hut and uplift expenses are all covered within the course budget).
Travel Full travel details are provided with your joining instructions. Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online.
Fitness To make a successful ascent of Mont Blanc you need good cardiovascular fitness and plenty of stamina - as the summit day will involve 10 - 12 hours climbing at high altitude (see fitness level 3) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with full days out in the UK hills and other regular exercise. A full week is spent acclimatising prior to making a summit bid, so pre acclimatisation for this course is non essential.
ExperienceYou need good general fitness and and experience in UK mountains (summer or winter) - full training in use of crampons and ice axe is provided at the start of the course. Some scrambling or rock climbing experience is also handy for some of the acclimatisation routes tackled earlier in the course.
EquipmentAll communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. Local equipment hire (including boots) is also available.