Alpinism
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Lets face it, every climber who's ever seen the Matterhorn has had a secret wish to climb it one day! A long and difficult climb by any route, the mountain requires good levels of fitness, alpine experience and favourable conditions for success. Working closely with the same guide all week gives you the greatest opportunity to target weather windows for a successful summit bid. During the week we prepare for an ascent of either the Hornli or Italian ridges. Both routes are long and committing days and dry, snow free conditions are required on the route to safely reach the summit. Due to the difficulties and altitude involved, you must be pre acclimatised from the start (ie several days spent climbing at altitude the week before) and we need to know your plans for achieving this when you book. Course Feedback " Guiding was great and I achieved, just what I wanted to. It's only later when you look at photos of the routes when you think Wow! did I manage that? " NJ - Matterhorn 06 " Thanks guys, the guiding was excellent in all areas and I thoroughly enjoyed being with you all. Olly was great fun to be with and taught me some useful new skills and Jonny was fantastic getting me up the Matterhorn. Please pass on my thanks to Jonny for helping me with my SPA stuff and let him know I passed it last weekend. " AB - Matterhorn 06 Sample Itinerary Subject to weather and conditions we follow the general format below: Day 0 Sun Days 1-5 Mon - Fri Matterhorn Ascent. Travel across to Zermatt and make use of the best weather window to climb either the Hornli or Italian ridge of the Matterhorn. A training climb is generally be undertaken at the start of the week to confirm your fitness and acclimatisation levels prior to the ascent. Choice of route depends on fitness, experience and current mountain conditions. (Eg the Italian ridge is a more commiting route). Fri PM return to Chamonix. NB Conditions on the Matterhorn You need be aware when booking that good, dry conditions on the route are essential for making a safe ascent. ie similar to those in the photo above (the Hornli ridge is the right hand skyline) If the Matterhorn is snowed up and out of condition, then a high quality alternative on another peak will always be offered. Food and Accommodation We run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis to allow you maximum flexibility with accommodation options. Our recommended hotel in Chamonix is the Hotel Les Lanchers ** (see photos) in Chamonix Les Praz, run but friendly ex-pat Jon Rodgers - who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make whatever accommodation arrangements you like. A number of nights are also spent in Alpine huts to maximise climbing time during the week. Your guide will book these as necessary & you simply pay for hut fees direct as you go along (the guides car fuel, hut and uplift expenses are all covered within the course budget). Travel Full travel details are provided with your joining instructions. We meet in Chamonix at the start of the week as it is easier to reach and offers better acclimatisation opportunities, then move to Zermatt to make our ascent. Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online. Fitness Climbing the Matterhorn requires good levels of fitness & stamina, as the summit day involves 8-12 hours technical climbing at high altitude (see fitness level 3) so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular training and exercise. Pre acclimatisation is essential for this week (ie several days spent climbing at altitude the week before, idealy up to 4000m and including some technical terrain). We need to know your plans for achieving this when you book. Experience You need previous alpine AD climbing experience and must be sure footed enough to move quickly and safely over exposed scrambling terrain as well as climb VDiff rock easily in big boots with a rucsac on. If you haven't climbed with us before, your guide will generally want to undertake a training climb at the start of the week to confirm your fitness and ability levels before embarking on the ascent. Equipment All communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. Local equipment hire (including boots) is also available. |
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Sample Climbs :
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