Every alpinist dreams of climbing a world famous peak some day and non comes more renowned than the Eiger.A long climb by any route, the mountain requires good levels of fitness and alpine experience. Working closely with the same guide all week gives you the greatest opportunity to target weather windows for a successful summit bid.
Our program involves an acclimatisation climb before attempting the excellent Eiger south ridge or it's harder counterpart the famous Mittellegi Ridge (see: eiger ascent photos).
Sample Itinerary Subject to weather and conditions we follow the general format below:
Day 0
Sun
PM meet in Chamonix - discuss plans, sort equipment and overnight in valley.
Day 1
Mon
Acclimatisation Climb if required. Ascent of a technical alpine route above Chamonix.
Travel across to Grindelwald and make use of the best weather window to climb either the South ridge or Mittelegi ridge of the Eiger.
Choice of route depends on current mountain conditions. (Eg the Mittelegi needs to be dry and free of snow to make a safe ascent). Fri PM return to Chamonix.
Food and AccommodationWe run all of our courses on a guiding & instruction only basis to allow you maximum flexibility with accommodation options.Our recommended hotel in Chamonix is theHotel Les Lanchers **(see photos) in Chamonix Les Praz, run but friendly ex-pat Jon Rodgers - who we will happily put you in touch with if you'd like to reserve a room. You are however free to make whatever accommodation arrangements you like. A number of nights are also spent in Alpine huts to maximise climbing time during the week. Your guide will book these as necessary & you simply pay for hut fees direct as you go along (the guides car fuel, hut and uplift expenses are all covered within the course budget).
Travel Full travel details are provided with your joining instructions. We meet in Chamonix at the start of the week as it is easier to reach and offers better acclimatisation opportunities, then move to Grindelwald to make our ascent. Chamonix is easily reached by flights to Geneva and an airport transfer, both of which are bookable online.
Fitness Climbing the Eiger requires good levels of fitness & stamina the summit day involves 8-12 hours technical climbing at altitude (see fitness level 3)so we advise you to prepare well in advance with regular training and exercise. Pre acclimatising is recommended to give the best chance of success, but the Eiger is still achievable following an acclimatisation route at the start of the week.
ExperienceYou need previous alpine AD climbing experience and must be sure footed enough to move quickly and safely over exposed scrambling terrain as well as climb VDiff rock easily in big boots. Depending on conditions, the routes involve high quality ridge climbing with pitches up to grade III rock or scottish III mixed.
EquipmentAll communal safety equipment (ropes etc) is provided by us. You are expected to come equiped with personal clothing and climbing equipment. Local equipment hire (including boots) is also available.