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Ski Mountaineering Equipment Advice
When it comes to ski mountaineering kit, it’s worth remembering the old adage that every extra kilo on your back knocks 10% off your enjoyment of the descents. Getting hold of the best and lightest kit available is generally always worth it. About the only area where kit preference is veering toward the slightly heavier is in choice of skis, with more and more ski mountaineers deciding to maximise enjoyment on descents by using wider off piste models. Boots are getting lighter and better each year, with thermofit inners becoming pretty much standard.
Below we highlight features to look for and a number of recommended products for most main items of kit - with a big thanks to Andy Hall at Backcountry UK, our thoroughly recommended Ski Touring Equipment retailer
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Avalanche Tranceivers At the moment, in our view the Mammut Baryvox, Baryvox Pulse and Arva Evolution models are the best units around. These devices are the fastest to use in search situations, beginners can become proficient using them quickly and the more advanced features are excellent for dealing with multiple burials and complex situations.
It must be stressed though that extensive practice and training is the most important thing you need.
NB We no longer recommend the old Ortovox F1 analogue transceiver - due to frequency drift and compatibility problems with newer digital transceivers. Although these units are still sold and available for hire in many places as a good value basic transceiver, there have been several reports of digital transceivers being unable to detect them in certain adverse circumstances.
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Bindings There are a number of interesting new products around in this area, so we've given our opinions on the well established and newer models about.
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· Fritschi Explore (1.7kg) Latest version of the Diamir - the best selling binding on the market for years and with good reason. Latest Mk III toepieces are much stronger than their predecessors (beware of the new red plastic harcheisen design though - take them off on descents or they may get damaged - we recommend the original harscheisen which are still available). Buy ski brakes too as a matter of course.
· Fritschi Freeride (2.1kg) Beefed up version of the above, designed to take abuse from a lot of lift based off piste skiing too. New updated model out (called the Freeride Plus). Good choice for heavier, more aggressive skiers. Brakes are included in the package.
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· Naxo Binding (2.1kg) - various models in the range. Much talked about newcomer with some interesting features, but in use the bindings show up a number of irritating niggles and have serious reliability problems (so serious that we've actually banned them from our tours, unless you bring an extensive spares kit!) NB These bindings are also available rebadged as 'Freeride' bindings on various Rossignol and Dynastar skis - the package may look a good deal, but think carefully...
· Silvretta Pure (1.2kg) Offers significant weight savings over the Diamir, but with it's lighter construction we'd recommend sticking to touring use for this model.
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· Dynafit Tourlite Speed (0.7kg) Lightest (and despite appearances), strongest binding on the market! The catch? - really a touring only model and you need dynafit compatible boots with special inserts to use the bindings. They are trickier to step in and out of too - but if weight is really crucial, then Dynafit bindings are an ideal choice (see important release safety notes below before you buy though).
· Dynafit Vertical FT and ST (0.9kg) Beefed up newer versions of the original, which are easier to use and also come with brakes. We use and recommend these bindings, but as before - see notes below before buying. (NB these models replace the old Dynafit Comfort binding, which had flex problems and was not a sucess).
NB Dynafit Bindings & Release Safety. The weight savings are obvious, but we only recommend Dynafit bindings for experienced and good standard off piste skiers (ie at least level 3, preferably 4 or 5 on our Off Piste Skiing Ability Levels). This is because the front of a dynafit binding only offers upwards release ie it has no sideways toe release (sideways release is possible, but only at the heel) which can have safety implications in certain types of fall - ie we do not recommend using dynafit bindings if you are a skier who takes regular falls in difficult snow conditions. Please consider this factor seriously before buying dynafit bindings.
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Boots We make no apology for erring to the performance end of the market here - as good, fully custom fitted boots will improve your skiing and enjoyment more than anything else. To start with, forget the expense and always go for a full thermofit liner and a custom made footbed straight away - it will always be worth it. After that, foot volume, individual fit and boot weight may well decide your final choice - but we give notes on various favourite models below:
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· Scarpa Denali TT (3.6kg) - An enduring classic, the latest Denali comes with a new wrap around cuff design and softer tongue than the XT model, which many found too stiff. Good choice if you want 'one boot for everything' and plan to ski on a Frischi binding all the time.
· Scarpa Spirit 4 (3.8kg) - the 4 buckle version of the Scarpa Spirit comes supplied with 2 different tongues (stiff and soft) for different types of skiing and conditions - it's destined by Scarpa to replace the Denali as a top all rounder (dynafit compatible too).
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· Scarpa Matrix (3.2kg) - Great, light technical boot - popular amongst keen tourers (dynafit compatible). Recommended if you are looking for a good light touring boot, that still gives plenty of support and control for technical skiing.
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· Garmont Adrenaline (3.8Kg) - High ski performance and very versatile - you can swap the soles on these between a standard ski boot sole for resort use and a rubber vibram sole unit for ski mountaineering. Good choice if you want one boot for everything, but are likely to also ski on standard downhill bindings as well as touring bindings. NB the Garmont Endorphine is a lighter weight version of this boot and also popular.
Scarpa Tornado (3.9Kg) - Scarpa's answer to the Garmont Adrenaline! Interchangeable soles and the same features as above - if you are after this type of 'Freeride Boot', then ideally try on both models to see which fits your foot shape the best.
NB Freeride boots with interchangeable soles offer great support for off piste skiing, but are only really designed for lift assisted and day touring use. They are not so comfortable for walking and skinning long distances in (ie we've seen lots of blistered feet coming out of these boots on longer multiday hut tours - if you envisage using the boot for multiday tours, then you might be better looking at a Scarpa Spirit instead).
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· Scarpa Lady Magic (3.1kg) - Good quality touring boot specifically moulded for women’s feet. Similar construction and performance characteristics as the popular men's Matrix boot. Dynafit compatible.
· Garmont She Ride
(3.4kg) - Great all round off piste and touring boot - (ie a womens specific equivalent to the Denali TT). Good choice if you want one boot to do everything on a pair of fritschi bindings.
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Clothing Light, warm and versatile are the key words to bear in mind when choosing touring clothing - as an average week sees you alternate between carrying clothes in your sac on climbs and warm afternoons, to wearing absolutely everything when the weather closes in. A traditional layering approach works well, but we’ve also found certain combination garments can be great with the advantage of saving weight by combining the function of 2 layers into one (eg an insulated waterproof jacket is lighter than a cagoule and mid layer combined, and you often wear both or none at all when ski touring).
· Legwear Either go for thermal longjohns under a pair of lightweight overtrousers, or if you don’t anticipate rain, then why not use a pair of weather resistant mountain pants (made from fabrics such as Schoeler dynamic, Powershield or Windstopper) and ditch the overtrousers altogether. Paramo legwear has a following amongst many Brits for touring, but not the jackets which are heavy to carry. For baselayers we prefer Merino wool or powerstretch depending on how cold it is and look for Goretex paclite and eVent fabrics when choosing overtrousers. Full weight goretex sallopets are best avoided, as you end up either sweating a lot or carrying them - and they weigh a ton!
· Topwear Typically this runs along the lines of: wicking baselayer + warmer midlayer + shell garment, with an additional light and warm ‘spare layer’ to put on when it’s really cold. For base layers we really rate Merino wool - which is warmer, more comfortable over wide temperature ranges and doesn’t smell like other thermals. For midlayers we recommend fleece fabrics such as R2 Regulator, or ‘soft shell’ garments with Primaloft insulation (try and avoid windstopper fleece though, which is twice the weight to carry). Lightweight shells made of Paclite or eVent are great. For spare layers, Primaloft softshells are ideal (ie a light synthetic 'puffer' type jacket) - with synthetic or down filled waistcoats being a good option too. Full down jackets are generaly over the top for hut touring, but there are a few light 400g models around which might be worth a look (most guides will carry one of these in case they have to wrap up a skier injured in a fall).
· Extremities Good quality ‘thermic’ type ski socks or mountaineering socks with a good wool content are essential. Ski socks don’t want to be too thick and wearing two pairs is best avoided. A warm, wind resistant hat is also a must - as are top notch ski/mountain gloves. If you suffer from cold hands, consider a pair of mittens or carry a few ‘heat pads’ to put in when it’s really cold. NB When drying your boots in the evening, whatever you do keep your thermofit boot liners away from too much heat, as you risk ‘reforming’ them if they get too hot.
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Crampons Very light, alloy framed crampons are available for ski mountaineering which are a great weight saver and suitable for most types of tours. Camp XLC's are the lightest, but don't go buying a pair of these intending them to be your only set of crampons - as they were only ever designed for stomping up steep snow. For technical tours that may involve climbing on icy ground and snowed up rock, then you still need to use good steel crampons such as DMM Gladiators.
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Crevasse Rescue Kit If you are joining a trip or course, then 2 prussik loops and a 4ft sling with screwgate crab is sufficient. However, a guide would probably be carrying the following:
- belay device
- 5 screwgate crabs
- 8ft sling
- spare quickdraw
- 2 ice screws
- 2 prussik loops
- Ropeman or Mini Triaxion
- Lightweight pulley or DMM Revolver crab.
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Harness Light and simple are the watchwords here. If you already have a climbing harness, then chances are you will also to use it for ski touring too, which is fine. However, if you want to save some weight there are 2 options: buy a light alpine climbing harness (eg. DMM Super Couloir) or an ultralight, specific ski touring harness (Camp make various models).
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Ice Axes There are a number of extremely light alloy headed axes on the market billed as ski mountaineering models (eg Cassin Ghost, Camp XLC). Unfortunately, when you try to climb or actually do any work with one of these tools they are very difficult to use effectively, so best reserved for days when you don't think you are going to need an axe! If you are after a light tool which is genuinely useful when you need it, look at the DMM Vapour.
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Poles Any pair of normal fixed length ski poles are fine for ski touring, with alloy ones being preferable to carbon fibre or composite poles in terms of strength - but either are a lot stronger and more reliable than telescopic poles. Make sure you have reasonable sized baskets (5cm plus in diameter) for the softer conditions and a full metal rather than composite tip if possible. If you really do prefer telescopic poles, then we strongly recommend the Black Diamond Traverse two stage model - as this is the only one which doesn't seem to break or malfunction on a regular basis. Another thing we recommend avoiding is pole/probe combos, as they do neither job well and you risk not having a probe if an avalanche incident occurs.
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Probes 230-260cm is a good working length and carbon fibre models are lightest. Currently the Black Diamond Quick Draw Carbon Probe 230 offers best value by far in this group. Alloy probes are stronger but heavier - with Voile, Ortovox and BD all offering very similar products and prices. |
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Ropes It's common to carry two 30m long, 8mm dynamic ropes in the party - one with the leader and another at the back (in case the leader skis into a crevasse!). Beal market a specific rope of this length called the Randonee. Having said that, many variations occur depending on the type of tour and the obstacles expected - you may see guides carrying everything from 40m of 7mm static cord, to a full weight, full length rope.
Rucsacs A 35-40l pack with a u shaped zip opening rather than a lid is the classic touring sac. Other useful features are a close, body hugging fit, ability to carry skis together on the back (like you would carry a snowboard) and as few excess features as possible (though it's difficult to achieve this without taking a knife to most sacs!) - Marmot, Haglofs and Black Diamond make a number of good touring sacs of this type.
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Shovels We would always recommend a metal blade for digging in really hard avalanche debris, as plastic blades tend to flex in these situations (though they are less likely to get bent or break as a result).
The new Black Diamond Deploy 3 is a great metal shovel with a telescopic handle and for polycarbonate blades look at the Lifelink 3DXS, which is similar to, but made from thicker plastic than the Camp and Ortovox economy models. For a budget quality metal blade, check out the Black Diamond Lynx also.
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Skins - For Ski Touring With out a doubt Black Diamond Ascension skins have historically had the best glue, plus they glide very well and last a long time also.
Current versions are all sold with a cut to fit device and reliably stay on whether the classic tip only attachment system is used or the tip and tail fastenings instead (in which case the glidelite attachment system is the one we recommend). 3G skins are identical, having just been repackaged under a different name.
Colltex improved their glue last season and have modernised the fitting system on the skins, so well worth looking at too (the tail clip system is great, but watch out for the adjustable tip loop - it comes apart easily, so make sure you put some tape around the link point!)
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Skis - Off Piste & Touring A minefield this one! Here we aim to flag up a few of the best all mountain skis around that deliver good off piste performance without being too heavy for touring - ie for Brits wanting one ski for all.
· Dynastar Legend 8000 - (3.55Kg at 178cm, 120-79-103) New model out this year - great off piste performance and features make this a particularly good ski for touring - ie slightly longer turn radius is better for skinning and traverses, narrow tail is good for tight spots + controling speed, plus they come with a tail notch for skin clips. Good choice if you want a high performance ski and intend to do quite a lot of touring or steeper skiing.
· Scott Aztec Limited - (3.2kg at 175cm, 118-78-103) Great lightweight freeride ski, with a quality wood core. Very popular with British ski tourers and the ideal choice for intermediate level off piste skiers looking for a stable, easy to turn ski.
· Scott Aztec Pro - (3.6kg at 175cm, 118-78-103) Big brother of the Aztec Limited, comes with a stiffer Titanal topsheet for better damping at higher speeds. Good choice if you ski off piste at a good standard and plan to do a lot of off piste resort skiing, with some touring too.
· Scott Neo Aversion - (3.7kg at 172cm, 123-83-114) Good choice for heavier and more agressive skiers - slightly stiffer than the above. Wood core and a titanal topsheet - Ski Of The Year in various tests.
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· K2 Apache Recon (3.7Kg at 175cm, 115-78-105). Full wood core, brilliant smooth flex & excellent damping. This model was Ski Of The Year for several years running. For those who want high performance coupled with great versatility and don't mind paying for it.
· Rossignol B2 Womens - (3.0kg at 160cm, 116-78-105) Great quality women’s ski with good all round performance/weight for off piste and touring.
· Scott Aztec Maya (3.0kg at 160cm, 116-76-106) Womens version of the Scott Aztec Limited - good choice for beginner and intermediate level off piste skiers looking for a stable, easy to turn ski.
Skis - Lightweight Touring If saving weight is of utmost importance, then this is the way to go - but don't expect the same performance levels as from out and out downhill skis. Again the market is huge, but we've flagged up a few well regarded models for you to consider.
· K2 8611 Summit Superlight (2.6kg at 174cm, 107-70-97) A light weight spruce core, carbon fibre cap and modern carving sidecut put this ski on a performance footing without the weight.
· Trab Sintesi Duo (2.3kg at 171cm, 105-72-93) The king of modern touring skis - new duotip version. Wood core, a superb ski for good skiers and stable at speed. If money really is no object then you can save a further 300g with a pair of Sint Aero Duo’s - ultralight air channel core. We love these skis, but they do cost a fortune!
· Trab Freerando Duo (2.6kg at 171cm, 112-79-98) Same construction as the Sintesi, but a wider bodied ski offering more float in deep snow and a bit more stability in tricky conditions.
NB We only recommend lightweight touring skis for experienced, good standard off piste skiers (ie level 3 - 5 on our Off Piste Skiing Ability Levels) with a strong interest in touring. The weight saving obviously comes at a cost in terms of performance on the descents - so you need to be able to make up for this with good ski technique, in order to enjoy any net energy saving or increased enjoyment factor from this type of ski. Similarly, you should never buy this kind of ski for a single 'one ski does everything' setup. |
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